Insider Trips

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The South of France is famous for such iconic hotels as Hotel du Cap Eden Roc, the Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat, the Chateau St.-Martin and the Hotel Royal Riviera. But as enticing as these legends are, most visitors also crave exploration beyond the resorts to sample all the activities and experiences that this region has to offer.

We have compiled a round-up of the region’s best half-day and day trips, whether you’re in pursuit of art, great food or scenic vistas. Many can easily be combined for fun-filled itineraries. Contact our Bookings Team for help planning your trip to this—one of the Europe’s most fabled regions.
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TEN NOT TO MISS IN TUSCANY

Ashley Turney, the founder of Live It Italy, first traveled to Rome in 1990 and fell in love with the country, its people and culture. Turney, who is now based in the United States, returns to Italy regularly, citing Rome, Tuscany, Umbria, Verona, Brescia, Venice and the Lake District as some of her favorite places to revisit. For her first Local Picks, she chose ten spots not to miss in Tuscany.

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California-born, London-based contributor Elena Bowes has lived in the British capital for decades but she can still get excited about the city’s vivacity. “I sometimes feel like I’ve barely scraped the surface of this place, which is why I love it,” she writes.

Families planning a trip should consider ordering Indagare Mapped Out: London an essential three-day itinerary that highlights what to do and see in the British capital with kids in easy-to-follow guides that include hotel, restaurant and shopping suggestions.

London Update: Spring 2013

Spring is a season of renewal in London, when days start getting longer and buds begin to brighten the city’s squares and gardens. New hotels, restaurants and cafés come online and some of the year’s most exciting theatrical and artistic shows debut. Our London-based contributor, Elena Bowes rounds up what not to miss during this spring in London, from Roy Lichtenstein at the Tate Modern to Dame Helen Mirren reprising her role as Queen Elizabeth II.

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Unless Angelina Jolie happens to be shooting a film that effectively shuts down the Grand Canal (sadly, the resulting The Tourist was hardly worth the trouble), Venice is blissfully unconcerned with buzz. Except in odd-numbered years when the Venice Biennale flings La Serenissima back into the limelight, drawing troves of art aficionados to its watery cityscapes. If you’re planning a trip, consider ordering Indagare Mapped Out Venice, an essential three-day itinerary that highlights what to do and see in the city in easy-to-follow daily guides.

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Hong Kong can seem all business, no play, but because the city has varied terrain—Hong Kong island itself encompasses everything from skyscraper-clad Central to beach-chic Stanley—it’s fun to explore. And thanks to the fact that English is widely spoken and taxis are readily available (and cheap), touring is easy. Here are ten Hong Kong attractions not to be missed. Contact Indagare for help planning an itinerary.

Read about Indagare’s favorite restaurants in Hong Kong.

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Paris Hot Spots: Spring 2013

Long days and blue skies make May and June the ideal time to enjoy the City of Light at her finest, before the summer crowds arrive. From dazzling museum shows and delicious neo-bistros to a princely hotel recently returned to its former glory, here’s why Paris shines brighter than ever this spring.

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Today was my last day in Istanbul, and in my mind I am still sifting through images. The glittering golden interior dome of the Hagia Sophia cathedral, the masterpiece of the Byzantine era; the harmony and serenity of Suleymaniye Mosque, with its intricately painted tiles; a sultan’s diamond the size of an egg at Topkapi Palace, the sun setting orange behind the minarets of the Blue Mosque as we cruised on the Bosphorus Straight; our rooftop dinner with the vast city spread out before us, a spangle of lights below. Or maybe the moment of departure, when our car was waiting outside, bags loaded, but no one in our group could climb in without going back out to look at the Bosphorus one more time, all of us standing on the marble terrace transfixed by the sunlight playing on its silver surface beyond the magnolia trees and rows of red geraniums. There is nothing subtle about Istanbul. It is high drama, regal and over-the-top—and from a cultural and historical perspective, as mind blowing as one’s first visit to Rome or Paris. I can’t believe that I have been to those cities multiple times and never set foot in Istanbul until now. It is simply unmissable, even in the off season, even in November. A last tidbit: one item on display at Topkapi Palace is the original staff used by Moses to part the Red Sea (um, what?!). It’s Istanbul. Prepare to suspend your disbelief. It’s magic, just go with it.

Here are some tips for a first visit. Note: Indagare will be leading a guided Insider Trip there in September, contact us for details or to help plan your own bespoke trip.

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UPDATE SPRING 2013

If last year marked St. Barth’s New York moment due to the arrival of Manhattan’s Bagatelle and super chef Jean-Georges (not to mention the Real Housewives), this season signals the return of a European influence. Henley Vazquez reports on what not to miss on the island right now.

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San Francisco Hot Spots

Spring is when San Francisco shines. The air is warm and the summer fog is still weeks away. And this spring San Francisco beckons with several new offerings, as reported by Indagare contributor, Noelle Salmi.

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Surevolution founder Marcella Echavarria shares her passion for Peru and tips on what not to miss.

“Alchemy is a word that comes to mind when describing the incredible spirit of Perú. This Andean country of 28 million people is the result of an inspirational combination of flavors, cultures, histories, peoples and more than six dozen indigenous languages, all of which together have created a wide diversity of cultural expressions now conquering the world.

There is a distinctness that is Peru. It is the mystery of the Andes and the exuberance of the Amazon. It is the darkness of the Pacific and the clarity of the Inca Valleys. It has the largest indigenous population in South America with the Quechuas, Aymaras and Moches situated in the Andean highlands and the intricate shamanic Ticuna, Yagua and Shipivo tribes in the Amazon. There is Machu Picchu, Peru’s ancient city and one of the marvels of the world, and there is Lima, a modern metropolis and now an exciting culinary destination thanks to Gastón Acurio, the Peruvian chef who has taken authentic ingredients and recipes to new levels of creativity and put Peruvian specialties like ceviches, tacutacu, aji de gallina, causass, and anticuchos on the map amongst fine global cuisine.”

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1. GREAT OUTDOORS

Gorges du Verdon This spectacular national park forms a border between the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region and the Var and is known as France’s Grand Canyon, with dramatic cliffs and waterfalls at every twist and turn. Activities here include everything from rafting to rock-climbing.

Lunch Nearby: La Bastide de Moustiers, Alain Ducasse’s long-established country inn set back in the valley.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 40 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour 40 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour 45 min; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 2 hours.)

Le Domaine du Rayol The lush grounds of this seacoast government-protected park evoke days gone by on the Riviera, with lush wild landscapes right out of a Renoir painting. It is a favorite place for a family outing, plus you can also go snorkeling and explore a special underwater garden trail of marine life.

Lunch Nearby: La Rastègue, in Bormes-les-Mimosas, an unspoiled flower-lined village of tiny vaulted streets and fountains.

(Driving times: From St. Tropez: 35 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 2 hours; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour 45 min; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 2 hours.)

Esterel National Park Take the Route 6098 from Mandelieu La Napoule, park in the port of La Rague and hike up to the hillside trail to this spectacular 700-hectare park. Perched above Theoule-sur-mer and overlooking the spectacular stretch of red rock Esterel cliffs and secret turquoise inlets, the fragrant Mediterranean plants and flowers of every variety are well worth the uphill trek.

Lunch Nearby: Jilali B, perched just above the coastal road faces the tiny port of Figueirette.

(Driving times: From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From St. Tropez: 1 hour.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour.)

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1. The Parisian Art Scene

Contemporary art is filling the hallowed halls of Paris’s traditional museums. From Keith Haring in the Musée d’Art Moderne, to 34-year-old ingénue Loris Gréaud in the Louvre and Simon Hantai in the Centre Pompidou, these exhibitions are not to be missed this spring. Read more: Paris Art in the Springtime.

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1/ Berlin is…eight times the size of Paris.

Officially, Berlin has just twelve districts, but it’s a massive sprawl made to feel even larger by the fact that each district seems to have myriad neighborhoods all totally different from one another. Most of the major sites—including the Museum Island, Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, Berlin Wall Memorial —are located in or close to the Mitte district, in the former East, which also has some of the city’s best restaurants and shopping neighborhoods. Choosing where to be based is key: residential Charlottenburg, in the former West, is a lovely district but far from most of the major sights. Two hotels with excellent central locations are the Hotel de Rome and the Regent Berlin. Alternatively, one could also plan a trip with two-to-three nights in the former East and another two in the former West (a lovely small luxury hotel is the Brandenburger Hof), from which such day trips as Potsdam and the Wannsee are easily accessible.

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1/ Central Architecture Tour

Striking architecture in Central includes Norman Foster’s Hong Kong Shanghai Bank building, I.M. Pei’s Bank of China building and Cesar Pelli’s International Finance Center (IFC). The latter is a major social hub and has many good dining options (try Isola or Agnes B’s Le Pain Grillé) and many stores, including ex-pat supermarket City Super, a good place to know about if the kids are maxed out on Chinese food.

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2. Le Fooding

Oysters and chocolates and bistros, oh my! (Or should we say, ooh la la?!) Les gourmands’ tongues are wagging about the hip Le Mary Celeste and Alain Ducasse’s La Manufacture du Chocolate. The nouvelle vague in Parisian dining is a fresh, inventive take on classic French cuisine. The prix-fixes at recently opened neo-bistros Roseval, Bones and La Régalade Conservatoire, feature exquisite reinterpretations of standard bistro fare, infused with unexpected and international flavor combinations.

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2. SCENIC VILLAGE CIRCUIT

Itinerary: Visit Grasse, Le Bar-Sur-Loup, Gourdon, Tourettes-Sur-Loup and Vence in the morning and in the afternoon, visit the perched medieval villages of Cagnes-sur-mer, Roquebrune and Eze, a maze of vaulted narrow streets, galleries and boutiques, with mesmerizing vistas of the coast.

Lunch Nearby: The Michelin-starred Hostellerie du Château, in Le Bar-Sur-Loup.

(Driving times: This circuit takes approximately 3 hours starting from Antibes.)

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2/ Berlin is…history

The multiple layers of history overlap in unexpected ways. For instance, the Topography of Terror, an outdoor exhibition on the haunting (and probably haunted) site of the former Gestapo headquarters also has a large chunk of remaining Berlin Wall running alongside it. You should spend at least one day with a guide, as it’s easy to miss things in the rebuilt city. My excellent guide, Julian, led me to the retro-looking Tränenpalast (palace of tears) near the Friedrichstrasse subway station, explaining that this was one of the few open stations between West and East and where East Berliners had to say good-bye to loved ones en route back to the other side. While many of the city’s museums are excellent, what’s even more powerful is walking past a hip boutique hotel and learning that its building served as a KGB headquarter (that would be Lux 11) or walking along the Spree river hearing about the courageous attempts to swim to freedom from East to West (one involving a swan disguise). Contact Indagare for an introduction to our preferred historic guiding company that offers such tours as Biking the Wall; Cold War Berlin; Jewish Berlin and a 3-hour introductory walk.

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2/ Peak Tram

The iconic carnation-red funicular tram runs from Central to the top of the Peak and has been doing so since 1888. The ride affords views of the shrinking skyscrapers as you make your way toward the highest, and most dramatic, point on Hong Kong island.

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3 Favorites

“At Cip’s diners are seated on a terrace built over the canal and facing San Marco Square with breathtaking sunsets and views. A nice evening stroll at the Zattere eating the famous Nico’s gelato al Gianduiotto with whipped cream is another great experience. And the Ghetto, so quiet and interesting, is one of the Venice neighborhoods that I love the most.” ~Serena Vianello, a jewelry designer who owns one of the city’s chicest boutiques

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3. ARTS/CULTURE

Saint Paul-de-Vence: La Fondation Maeght is the Riviera’s star attraction for cutting-edge exhibitions and a permanent collection of twentieth-century artwork from Calder mobiles to Chagall mosaics in the stunning sculpture garden under the pines.

Lunch nearby at La Colombe d’Or, surrounded by works of Calder, Miro, Braque and César or nearby Le Tilleul.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 30 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 15 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 45 min.)

Le Cannet: the recently-opened Musée Pierre Bonnard, just a stone’s throw from the pink villa where the celebrated French painter produced most of his masterworks.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 15 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 30 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour.)

St. Jean Cap-Ferrat: The Villa Ephrussi Gardens, a turn-of-the-century extravaganza built by Béatrice de Rothchild. The visit includes the sumptuous villa and seven hectares of exotic Mediterranean gardens, Renaissance fountains and a breathtaking view.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour)

Menton: The Musée Cocteau, the recently opened seaside architectural gem with a rotating collection of works by the multi-talented poet/painter/filmmaker/artist.

Lunch nearby: On the glass and chrome terrace of Le Mirazur, which sits on a hill near the Italian border.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 45 min.)

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3. New on the Hotel Scene

From the wrought-iron detailing on lobby elevator doors to the Tamara de Lempicka reproductions hanging in the guestrooms, the new and improved Prince de Galles pays homage to the hotel’s original glory days in the 1920s and ‘30s—when it hosted the likes of Winston Churchill and Marlene Dietrich. Today, brand-new amenities like the state-of-the-art fitness center and spa, insure that today’s glamorous guests will feel perfectly pampered.

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3/ Berlin is…art and culture.

Since one could spend an entire visit navigating among the city’s 150-plus museums (and myriad contemporary art galleries), it’s key to narrow down the options and, if possible, go with an insider who can pull the city’s astounding cultural heritage into focus. During my recent trip, our favorite art-tour specialist gave me an excellent introduction to the imposing Museum Island, home to four incredible museums: Pergamon, Altes, Neues and Bode. Not only was I able to skip ahead of seemingly endless lines with my guide but she took me on a well-edited tour of museum highlights (especially the Pergamon and Neues are massive art troves). The Ishtar Gate, the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus and the bust of Nefertiti are just some of the treasures I saw on my quick trip. Next on my list are the Neue Gemälde Gallery; the Käthe Kollwitz Museum, and the Sammlung Boros. Contact Indagare for an introduction to our art guide.

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3/ Star Ferry

The Star ferries run back and forth between Central’s Victoria Harbour and Kowloon, zigzagging through the ridiculously crowded shipping lanes of Victoria Harbour. At dusk it is particularly magical, and at 35 cents, it’s the most affordable sightseeing tour in the city.

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4. ON THE WATER

Ile St Marguerite, Ile St. Honorat: Take the boat at the port of Cannes to the Lérins Islands, just a 10-minute boat ride from the coast. The islands are a world apart from the coast, with dusty eucalyptus-shaded trails and jade and amethyst creeks.

Lunch Nearby: With your toes in the sand, dine at La Tonnelle on Ile St. Honorat.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 15 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 25 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 50 min.)

Iles de Porquerolles: Take the 15-minute ferry ride from La Tour Fondue, Hyères. The best-kept secret of the Riviera and a great family outing, with everything from bike and boat rentals to hiking trails and government-protected sand beaches.

Lunch Nearby: Have lunch at Le Mas de Langoustiers at the tip of the island or at the bay-windowed restaurant, L’Olivier, a favorite hideaway for incognito glitterati.

(Driving Times: From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 2 hours; From St. Tropez: 1 hour.)

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4/ Berlin is…child-friendly.

Most German cities are child-friendly, but Berlin takes it to a whole new level and caters to kids of all ages. There are cafés (like Kiezkind) specifically targeted for the stroller and toddler set, as well as playgrounds, parks and massive green spaces in every district. There are such sites as Berliner Unterwelten, where you tour Berlin’s underground (old bunkers, tunnels, secret Stasi rooms), which are options for tweens and teens. And of course the city’s shopping scene, with tons of vintage offerings, and colorful street art make an exploratory stroll more exciting for a hip teen than in the more spotless, history-heavy cityscapes of other Euro capitals.

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4/ Happy Valley Races

The horse races (every Wednesday night) in Happy Valley draw everyone from serious gamblers to expats catching up with friends and placing small bets (the lowest is $2.50). Interestingly, the Hong Kong Jockey Club is the largest private donor of charity funds.

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5. VINEYARDS

Château de Roseline: This unique vineyard is housed in a 12th century cloister, surrounded by a rose garden and contemporary sculptures and a Baroque chapel next door, with works by Chagall and Giacometti, plus evening concerts from jazz and flamenco. Offers both wine-tasting and private 3-hour workshops. (www.sainte-roseline.com)

(Driving times: From St. Tropez: 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour 30 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour 45 min.)

Château de Berne: Hidden away in the leafy countryside of Lorgues, the Château de Berne boasts some of the Var’s top-notch vintages and offers a variety of wine-tasting workshops (from 1-3 hours) on their sprawling estate. Kids can take advantage of other activities including renting a quad or dune buggy (from 1-3 hours) for a spin through the vast park. (www.chateaudeberne.com)

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour; From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour 20 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour 15 min.)

Château du Bellet: Take a tour through Nice’s pride and joy, these award-winning, 55-hectare vineyards, up in the hillsides of Nice, known for their the unique folle noire, a dark full-bodied fruity grape that grows only in the chalky soil of Le Bellet. (www.vinsdebellet.com)

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 30 min; From Chateau St.-Martin: 40 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 40 min.)

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5/ Berlin is…green.

Even more than twenty years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, there are massive plots of land in Berlin, especially in the former east, that remain undeveloped with thriving trees and wild flowers. The sense of space in the city is uncanny; even in the government district, you come across amazingly beautiful green spaces along the river. The central Tiergarten, which begins behind the Memorial of the Murdered Jews of Europe, comprises 520 acres and holds several pretty lakes (and cool lakeside eateries, like Café am Neuen See), as well as the amazing Berlin Zoo & Aquarium, two spots that should be on every parent’s list for when the weather is not great.

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5/ Edward Youde Aviary

Just as first-time visitors to New York City must be amazed by the Central Park Zoo, so Hong Kong novices are thrilled by this bird sanctuary, literally in the middle of Central’s gleaming skyscrapers. Some 100 species are represented, and the elevated walkways lead straight through the treetops (a delight for young visitors). Hong Kong Park.

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6. COOKING CLASSES

L’Oasis: At this long-established gastronomic haunt, set seaside in Mandlieu-La-Napoule, Michelin-starred chef Stéphane Raimbault oversees a 90-minute class every Friday evening. Instructions focus on authentic Provencal classics from osso bocco with olives or “tian” of lamb, to elaborate fish soups including creamy bourride and bouillabaisse. Check out his latest cooking course of children (aged 7-12) for future gourmets with burgeoning tastebuds. (www.oasis-raimbault.com.)

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 15 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 30 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour.)

L’Amandier: At the cooking school at L’Amandier, a converted oil mill in Mougins, rising-star chef Denis Fétisson offers 2 ½- hour classes with a seasonal theme, from truffles, asparagus and eggplants to vine peaches, Menton lemons and chocolate.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 15 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 30 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour)

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6/ Berlin is…unpretentious.

Berlin’s laid-back vibe is difficult to describe to people who have never been. But imagine arriving for breakfast at a cool Manhattan restaurant a half hour before it opens, being warmly welcomed by a waitress who is herself just arriving (and incidentally a dead-ringer for Carla Bruni. She told me to come in anyway and asked if I would like a latte while waiting for the kitchen to open. That’s what happened during my recent trip and it was not the only time that a Berliner, from a taxi driver to a shop owner, made me feel totally welcome. I can’t think of many other Euro city where a four-day trip doesn’t include a semblance of attitude (Paris, Amsterdam, Rome, Vienna, I’m looking at you).

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6/ Man Mo Temple & Sheung Wan

Incense coils adorn the entrance of the Man Mo Temple (124–126 Hollywood Rd.), the city’s oldest Taoist temple. It’s a great jumping-off point to explore Sheung Wan, which contain Chinese medicine, tea and food stores, as well as small outdoor markets. A good spot for lunch is Italian eatery 208.

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7. HAUTE CUISINE

The South of France has many incredible culinary options, from relaxed but refined spots like Vence’s Le Tilleul (a must if you’re staying at Chateau St.-Martin) to Michelin-starred eateries in St. Tropez and Antibes. Here are five gastronomic temples that I consider the top dining destinations of the coast.

La Vague d’Or This St. Tropez restaurant will be the summer’s hottest Riviera table, boasting a newly-awarded third Michelin star for young chef Arnaud Donckele.

(Driving Times: From Chateau St.-Martin: 1 hour 30 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour 30 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour 45 min.)

Le Saint-Martin Up in the breezy pine-shaded hills of Vence, Le Saint-Martin at hotel Chateau St.-Martin is headed by talented chef Yannick Franques whose artful, inspired dishes have garnered him two Michelin stars.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 30 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour.)

La Palme d’Or The restaurant at the Hôtel Martinez is than haute cuisine, since the wildly original, Michelin two-star chef, Christian Sinicropi takes pride in his whimsical dishes (served on ceramic plates he designed himself).

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 15 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 30 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 1 hour)

Le Château Eza Nothing beats the panoramic view of the coast from the shady dining terrace of the Le Château Eza, built into the cliff of the medieval village of Eze, some 400-odd meters above sea level.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 45 min.; From Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat or Hotel Royal Riviera: 15 min.)

Le Cap Michelin-starred chef Didier Aniés excels in delicate flavors and Mediterranean-style specialties, served on the peaceful garden terrace or in the revamped cozy dining room lined with Cocteau-inspired frescoes.

(Driving Times: From St. Tropez: 1 hour 45 min.; From Chateau St.-Martin: 45 min.; From Hotel du Cap Eden Roc: 1 hour.)

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7/ Berlin is…a relative Euro bargain.

Compared to other European capitals, Berlin remains a real value. I expected London and Paris to be more expensive, but I was surprised that even cities like Vienna, Amsterdam, Prague, Venice and Florence were much more expensive than Berlin. This is true for the hotels (depending on what time of year you book), but especially for dining out. The multi-course tasting menu at Michelin-starred restaurant Reinstoff starts at €64; at hip vegetarian restaurant Cookies Cream, three courses will run you around €35; and for a huge, delicious breakfast at insider spot Café am Neuen See, expect to pay under €10.

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7/ Symphony of Lights

Yes, it’s Disneyland meets Las Vegas, but the nightly laser-light show, with multicolored beams crisscrossing the night sky, is entertaining. It’s best viewed from the waterfront boardwalk of Tsim Sha Tsui, or from Lobby Lounge of the InterContinental, in Kowloon.

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8/ Berlin is…old-world.

While so much of Berlin is shooting into the future, pockets of the city remain amazingly old-world. A wonderful example is Clärchens Ballhaus, a dance hall that opened in the 1910s and feels out of another era. Tiny wooden tables line a well-used parquet dance floor, the walls are clad in golden tinsel and the whole thing is presided over by a friendly wait staff who heroically continue serving cocktails and snacks as the place fills to the brim. It’s open every night of the week, featuring a different style of dancing, from tango and cha-cha to swing and pop. Clärchen’s offers a slice of what Berlin must have been in the roaring twenties. Incidentally, it’s also on one of the prettiest streets of Berlin, near the Hackesche Höfe, Eigen + Art and Eismanufaktur.

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8/ Big Buddha

There’s nothing old about the enormous Buddha that presides over the mountains of Lantau (it was completed in 1993), but the glass-bottomed cable cars that sweep visitors to its feet make the trip memorable.

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9/ Berlin is…cutting-edge.

In Mitte, the streets around Lux 11, Casa Camper Soho House abound with hidden restaurants, bars, clubs and shops. As a visitor, you can walk the streets countless times and miss places like Apartment, iCBerlin and Münz Salon. They are behind non-descript, graffiti-clad doors, down sketchy-looking alleyways, in the basement of empty storefronts. Finding the “in” places is half the fun and, in some cases, actually impossible unless you know a plugged-in local like one of our guides, an energetic Swede transplant who delights in taking small groups behind the scenes of his adopted home. The aggressively hip—and ever youthful—scene is not for everyone, but if you want to dance in the latest club, drink in a bar that seats just ten by appointment and blend into the night with the cool people (hint: dressing down is the way to go), going with someone like our hip friend is essential (contact Indagare for an introduction).

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9/ Stanley Market

Many will recommend the Kowloon Night Market as a source for made-in-China mementos and knock-offs, but in fact the less seedy version, in the beach town of Stanley, carries many of the same things. And how much more pleasant to cap off a shopping spree with an espresso on the boardwalk rather than with haggling for a taxi in Kowloon.

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Access

Tradewind Aviation remains the most comfortable way to arrive on St. Barth’s, and this year, access is even easier. The charter airline has added regularly scheduled flights from both St. Thomas and Antigua, appealing both to sun-hungry Americans as well as to their British counterparts. For US residents, the convenience of clearing customs in San Juan or St. Thomas on the return trip is well worth the extra flight time versus the St. Martin hop. Don’t believe me? Try landing at JFK behind a full Lufthansa flight and then we’ll talk.

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Artful Picks

“The Fortuny Museum is a good point of departure, as is the secret tour of the Doge Palace. The church of Miracles is another must-see, as is the bell tower of Saint George and island of the Armenians.” ~Stefano Attombri, a designer of interesting jewelry and house wares on display in his San Polo boutique

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Autumn Preview: New York Dining

While New Yorkers escaped the city heat this summer, Gotham’s star chefs were toiling away, perfecting new dishes and meeting with architects in construction sites, prepping to expand their foodie empires with a bevy of new restaurants to open this Fall.

We compiled our favorite new spots as well as some highly anticipated gems, from rising newcomers, innovative trendsetters and veritable celebri-chefs. From TriBeCa to the Upper East Side, these are sure to have the hottest tables in the city:

We checked in with the toques behind our favorite new spots and heard about which dishes we can look forward to and what foodie fads are (or should) be on their way out.

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Berlin is…memory and future.

Berlin is a city of memorials, many of them major tourist sites like the Memorial of the Murdered Jews of Europe and the Berlin Wall Memorial. But there are many more subtle ones, each powerful in its own small way. Stroll across Bebelplatz and you come across a window on the ground that shows empty white bookshelves, enough to hold the 20,000 titles the Nazis burned here in 1933. Throughout Berlin, a double-line of red bricks runs along the path of the Berlin Wall, brilliantly demonstrating a division that ran through the middle of streets, buildings, graveyards, playgrounds, a people and their daily life. The devastating years of the Third Reich and the dark decades of the divided Germany are in plain view, literally and purposefully built into the cityscapes—an ever-present past that inspires conversations and requires thought. But Berlin is not trapped in history. Thanks to its creative spirit, the city strikes a remarkable balance, acknowledging the importance of the past, embracing the opportunity of the present, and wholeheartedly celebrating the unpredictability—and wonderful nervous splendor—of the future.

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Check In - Value: La Suite West

The talented Anouska Hempel pioneered the designer boutique hotel (she’s the mastermind behind Amsterdam’s Dylan and London’s Blake’s). Her latest addition to the London hotel scene is another successful study of minimalist chic. The relatively low price point (rooms start at £156) reflects the somewhat random location: in Bayswater, just east of Notting Hill.

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Chef Felipe Donnelly

Cómodo

What do you love to cook in the Fall?

I love all kinds of squash and pumpkins; I make a spaghetti squash risotto and stuffed and baked pumpkins.

What current food fads do you foresee sticking around for a while?

The evolution of “farm-to-table” will be around for a while. Consumers are getting smart about what they eat, and I see restaurants switching quickly from Sysco to Green Market quickly.

What’s your favorite NYC place for coffee? Place for drinks?

Porto Rico Importing Co. (201 Bleecker St.; 800-453-5908) is delicious and the smell of that store makes me crazy (in a good way). I also love Stumptown Coffee (www.stumptowncoffee.com).

My wife Tamy and I love Weather Up (159 Duane St.; 212-766-3202), which serves some really delicious and innovative drinks. We also love the bar at Minetta Tavern (113 MacDougal St.; 212-475-3850).

Whose cooking in New York inspires you?

New York City as a whole inspires me; the list is long. I love Fat Radish (17 Orchard St.; 212-300-4053), Northern Spy (511 E. 12th St.; 212-228-5100) and Mas (Farmhouse) (39 Downing St.; 212-255-1790).

Read Indagare’s review of Cómodo

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Chef Harold Dieterle

The Marrow

What do you love to cook in the Fall?

Slow cooked meats and braises, and big pots of red sauce.

What current food fads do you foresee sticking around for a while? Which do you wish would retire?

Casual dining and “comfort foods” are still big right now, but I hope that new concepts emerge that focus on more niche items and cuisines.

Whose cooking in New York inspires you?

I was always inspired by Jimmy Bradley at The Harrison (355 Greenwich St.; 212-274-9310). My friend John Fraser at Dovetail (103 W. 77th St.; 212-362-3800) is a really amazing chef, and he deserves some love too.

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Chef Hooni Kim

Hanjan

What do you love to cook in the Fall?

Mushrooms, especially grilled matsutakes.

What current food fads do you foresee sticking around for a while? Which do you hope to see retire?

Small plates; I think New Yorkers would always rather try more flavors than have bigger portions and fewer courses. I hope savory cocktails retire. That’s what food is for.

What’s your favorite NYC breakfast restaurant?

Prune (54 E. 1st St.; 212-677-6221), Clinton St. Baking Co. (4 Clinton St.; 646-602-6263), Norma’s (119 W. 56th St.; 212-708-7460). I love Blue Bottle (160 Berry St., Brooklyn; 718-534-5488) for coffee and drinks at Dram (177 South 4th St., Brooklyn; 718-486-3726) in Williamsburg.

Whose cooking in New York inspires you?

Everyone from Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller to our corner halal cart owner Ismail (who makes the best lamb over rice with grilled pita). I don’t think it matters what you cook as long as you do it with pride and passion. It’s inspiring.

What will be your signature dish at Hanjan?

Braised pig’s feet with fermented shrimp sauce.

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Chef Michael White

Ristorante Morini & The Butterfly

What do you love to cook in the Fall?

When it’s time to put the watermelon away, I think of heartier flavors and more substantial food: polenta with ragus, short ribs with bone marrow sugo and root vegetables.

What’s your favorite NYC breakfast restaurant?

I’m pretty confident that at Ai Fiori* (400 Fifth Ave.; 212-613-8660) we do one of the best breakfasts in town: homemade pastry baskets with cranberry and sage scones; fresh baked brioche; olive oil cake and also the lobster eggs benedict.

What do you foresee being your signature dish at Ristorante Morini?

Definitely something simple like a Gnocchi alla Sorrentino, or perhaps a paccheri with wild boar ragu and taleggio fonduta.

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Dine: Farm-Fresh Dining

Late spring is a wonderful time to enjoy the bounty of San Francisco’s organic farms and natural ranches. The hottest new restaurants in town celebrate the freshest flavors of the season. Central Kitchen comes from the team at Flour + Water and Rich Table. Nopa and Bar Agricole are always good bets, and on a warm evening you can’t beat a drive across the bay to dine at Sushi Ran in Sausalito. Read more.

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Dining Tips: Francesca

Lineadombra is a modern, trendy restaurant where you sit on an outdoor deck overlooking the canal (order the mille-feuille of scampi with onions and green apples). Another one for vistas is our own De Pisis, at Il Palazzo hotel, which overlooks the Grand Canal, with an amazing view of Santa Maria della Salute. I also love Harry’s Bar, the very essence of the café society that once played so large a part in the affairs of Europe. And finally, big news from San Marco: venerable Il Quadri restaurant was recently bought by two-Michelin-starred chef Alaimo (from the famous Calandre restaurant in Padova). It’s a hit: service, ambience and food are all excellent, as is its location, of course. ~Francesca Bortolotto Possati, the hotelier behind Bauer Il Palazzo and Villa F

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Dining Tips: Muriel

Al Covo is personal favorite; the food is fresh and yummy, the staff friendly. This is my favorite place to have lunch near to the Biennale’s site, the Arsenale and the Giardini. La Caravella (Via XXII Marzo), near San Marco and La Fenice, is extremely relaxing in the evening thanks to its interior yard-garden. They have a delicious Amaretto soufflé. And both museums owned by the François Pinault Foundation, Palazzo Grassi and the Punta Della Dogana, have nice cafés that serve food. ~Muriel Quancard, the founder of Opus Art Tours

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Dining Tips: Serena

Antiche Carampane is an “osteria” located away from the big tourist walks. You can eat wonderful and fresh fish in a very familiar and accurate atmosphere. Il Muro, Bancogiro and Naranzeria are located all near the Rialto bridge. These are three nice places where during the summer when you can eat outside, facing the Grand Canal. ~Serena Vianello

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Discover A Tuscan Retreat: Villa Bordoni

I can’t think of a place that says “Tuscany” more than the Villa Bordoni. Owned by a Scottish couple, this 15th-century villa, nestled among vineyards and olive groves, oozes warmth and hospitality from the moment you arrive. From the gracious staff to the intimate bar where breakfast and aperitifs are served, this is truly a country paradise. Each room is unique and exquisitely decorated, the food is exceptional and the resident golden retrievers are an added bonus.

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Eat: Big Night Out

Michelin starred chefs hailing from Catalonia to Hong Kong are coming to London this season. Most anticipated is the arrival of the Basque Country’s Elena Arzak, who, alongside her father Juan Mari Arzak, is opening the first international outpost of Arzak, called Ametsa in Belgravia’s Halkin Hotel. Eric Chavot who garnered two Michelin stars at The Capital is slated to open Brasserie Chavot for all meals in the Westbury Hotel off of Bond Street in late March (it’s already open for breakfast). And fans of molecular innovation should book at Bo London, the Mayfair sister to Hong Kong wunderkind restaurant Bo Innovation overseen by heavily tattooed chef Alvin Leung (self-taught and much-lauded).

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Eat: Café Scene

New York’s Balthazar has landed across the pond in Covent Garden (the waiting list for a table can exceed a month, but the white-tiled boulangerie next door offers lovely sandwiches and homemade pastries to go). Another eye-grabbing patisserie to swing open its doors is the Café at the Café Royal Hotel, the brainchild of Evelyn Stern, the Argentine-born wife of the hotel’s architect Sir David Chipperfield. The elegant café has pretty marble counters and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto bustling Regent Street.

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Eat: Neighborhood Spots

For a simple, mouthwatering bowl of soup and a hunk of homemade bread, try Notting Hill’s newcomer The Orchard, headed by Natasha Abraham, the ex-chef at the critically acclaimed River Café. Fans of this venerable London restaurant should also get Kitchen Memories, the new cookbook by Lucy Boyd, the daughter of the co-founder of River Café.

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Enjoy the View: Villa Vignamaggio, Chianti Hills

Located about twenty minutes from Villa Bordoni, this vineyard and B&B is located in an exquisite setting in the Chianti Hills. So evocative is the setting that Kenneth Branagh chose it as the location for his film Much Ado About Nothing. You can have a guided visit of the vineyard and the cellar with an explanation of the winemaking process followed by a lunch that is created with the freshest seasonal ingredients meant to pair perfectly with the wines served.

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Explore: Geek Out

In April the Exploratorium, one of the world’s top science museums, opened its doors in a brand new home. Kids and their parents can relish whiling away a few hours toying with hundreds of fascinating, mind-expanding interactive exhibits. Read more.

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Feel Spiritual: Abbey of Sant'Antimo

If you’re feeling the need for a little spirituality (no matter what your religion), take the pilgrimage to the Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Throughout the day, the monks celebrate mass in Gregorian chant. Sitting in silence in this impressive 12th-century church while listening to the haunting chants is a truly moving experience.

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French Chefs

French chefs are celebrating their moment in the sun. Le Sereno announced the arrival of Marseille native Jean Louis Brocardi at their popular Restaurant du Pecheurs, and Jean-Claude Dufour’s new endeavor at L’Espirt in Saline continues to get rave reviews (Dufour left Eden Rock when Jean-Georges arrived to head On the Rocks). Other new restaurants include La Table de Jules, a pretty bistro in Lorient, plus its adjacent sushi bar – available for take-out as well as eat-in (a plus for villa renters). Also great for take-out are the gourmet pizzas from L’Isoletta, a chic Roman-style pizzeria from Italian favorite L’Isola.

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French Party Scene

In Gustavia, Monaco’s Beefbar has transformed the former Strand space into Beefbar Jr. While the decor isn’t wildly different from the former supper club, the excellent filets and spicy tartares certainly are. St. Tropez has also made its mark, with the famous Le Voile Rouge (shuttered in St. Tropez) trading Pampelonne for Anse de Cayes, where it now serves both as a restaurant and beach club at the Manapany Hotel. The afternoon crowd was quiet when I was there, but word is that on planned party days, it more closely resembles the original.

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GENERAL ADVICE

Do not underestimate the amount of time it takes to get through the Istanbul airport. It is enormous and there are multiple security check points along the way. (As I departed, my passport was inspected a total of six times, with a line each time.) Even with expediting service, it is an undertaking. This is a place where it is advisable to arrive a good three hours before departure, two if you expedite. We highly recommend the expediting service (contact our booking department for details), which not only zips you through security and immigration but provides an escorted golf cart to ferry you through the vast, crowded airport. If you are traveling with young kids, it is a lifesaver.
  • Traffic is hideous. Think bumper-to-bumper gridlock. Plan accordingly.
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GREAT EXPERIENCES

Hammam: If you want to try a traditional Turkish hammam, a good place to start is in the gorgeous spa of the Four Seasons on the Bosphorus, where you will have a private room and a therapist who is clothed (in most local hammams, you would share the room with other women, in various states of undress, and your therapist is likely to be dressed with no more than a cloth tied around her waist). If you want to go where the locals go, the Ayasofya Hammam (Bab-1 Humayun Cad., Sultanahmet; 90 212 517 3535) is a good choice. In a hammam, you will sit on a marble table, while the therapist pours warm water on you, then exfoliates your skin with loofah, then piles feathery soap bubbles (like a bubble bath) on you, then rinses you. It is a very relaxing and enjoyable experience.

Bosphorus Cruise: A magical way to see Istanbul is from the water. Indagare can arrange a 90-minute private cocktail cruise with a guide to give you some history and context. Seeing the sunset behind the silhouetted spires of the Blue Mosque minarets is unforgettable.

Nightclubs. The most fabulous see-and-be-seen spot is Reina on the Bosphorus.

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Gabe Stuhlman & Michael Toscano

Perla

What do you love to cook in the Fall?

MT: I really love white truffles. When they start arriving from Italy in October and November, it’s an exciting time.

What current food fads do you foresee sticking around for a while? Which do you wish would retire?

MT: I genuinely hope everyone’s love for fish sandwiches keeps going strong.

GS: Frankly I am tired of is the obsession over burgers and meatballs. I would welcome people relaxing about this.

What’s your favorite NYC breakfast restaurant? Place for coffee? Place for drinks?

GS: My favorite breakfast restaurant—and this is most certainly biased—is definitely Joseph Leonard (170 Waverly Pl.; 646-429-8383). I could eat the scrambled eggs and avocado toasts all day long.

My top pick for coffee is East village spot Abraco (86 E. 7th St.; 212-388-9731), hands down. It’s not a competition, nobody does it better.

For drinks, I love anywhere that makes a great Old Fashioned or Manhattan. This involves a quality glass, great ice, and a good ratio of rye, vermouth, and bitters. The bar also shouldn’t be too crowded. Brian Bartels, my brother-in-arms and the GM/Partner at Fedora has created two of my favorite cocktails: the Black Squirrel Old Fashioned with house-made pecan bitters and other is Simon’s Sazerac (named after my newborn son), with house-made Twizzler bitters.

Whose cooking in New York inspires you?

MT: I have admired Del Posto’s (85 10th Ave.; 212-497-8090) Mark Ladner for his intelligent and methodical approach to Italian cuisine.

What is your signature dish as Perla?

MT: The veal tongue with Tokyo turnips, celery and tonnato sauce. Also the Chicken alla Diavola with charred scallions & oyster mushrooms.

GS: Orecchiette with broccoli rabe pesto and sweet Italian sausage, the Rib Eye for two with borlotti beans and aceto balsamico, and the Roast chicken for two.

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Get Pampered: L’Andana, Badiola

A fantastic place in Maremma. The rooms are gorgeous, the staff is incomparable (hospitable and kind without being the least bit arrogant). Pair this with a first-class spa and an Alain Ducasse Michelin-rated restaurant and your experience of country living in Tuscany is truly complete.

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HOTELS

  • Most Indagare members prefer to stay at one or both of the Four Seasons properties, our top two choices in Istanbul, which are both excellent and very different in style. With only 65 rooms centered on a landscaped courtyard in a historic building, the Four Seasons Istanbul at Sultanahmet is intimate and cozy, with a strong sense of place but minimal amenities (no pool). It is ideally located about a five-minute walk from the most important cultural sights in the Old City, such as the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque.

Considering the traffic in Istanbul, it is a real luxury to be a short walk from your hotel at the end of a long day of touring. For this reason, it makes a good choice for your first night or two. (Insider tip: there’s no need to spring for a suite, as even the lowest category rooms are spacious and charming.) That said, once you lay eyes on the uber-fabulous Four Seasons on the Bosphorus, which is much more glamorous and resort-like in feel, it’s hard to want to stay anywhere else, traffic be damned. The hotel has an enormous marble terrace right on the water with a burbling fountain and lots of places to lounge among the purple bougainvillea and clipped parterres. With its expansive water views and the huge outdoor pool, it has a vibe similar to Lake Como. It is worth the splurge for a Bosphorus view room, which are in short supply, so book as far in advance as possible (I like the Deluxe Bosphorus Rooms, which have a day-bed window seat.)

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Hide Out: Villa Mangiacane

If you are looking for an old-world, classic Tuscan experience, Villa Mangiacane is for you. The property was originally owned by the Machiaveli family and today incorporates the best of the Renaissance and modern-day amenities. The hotel has a fantastic spa, first-rate restaurant and produces its own wine and olive oil. It’s located just seven miles outside Florence, making it a convenient escape from the city bustle.

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Hotel News

In hotel news, Flamands’ mysterious Taiwana has changed ownership and become a proper hotel, with spacious rooms, an enviable location next to the Isle de France and an excellent dinner restaurant, PaCri. Across the island, the Guanahani finished its multi-year renovation and now boasts suites as nice as any on the island. The colorful bungalows, each with an expansive terrace, spacious Clarins-stocked baths, wonderful food and a beachfront gym (you have to burn off those calories somehow) has made the resort a favorite. If the property’s renewed appeal causes its own New York moment, we can forgive – the ambience remains positively French.

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Insider Tips for Croatia

Toto Bergamo Rossi is a Venice-based master restorer who has been traveling to Croatia—Europe’s so-called next Riviera—for a decade.

In Indagare Intelligence, he shares what not to miss in the country that was under Venetian rule for centuries, including his favorite restoration project, hotels and restaurants.

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Joe Campanale & Gabe Thompson

What do you love to cook in the Fall?

GT: I love cooking with sage and brown butter in the fall. I become much more heavy handed with the “hard” herbs like rosemary and sage. We use more roasted meat stocks and red wine in our braises (in the spring and summer we cook with more white wine). The whole menu becomes much more Thanksgiving-themed in flavors. Much more homey and warm.

What current food and drinks fads do you foresee sticking around for a while? Which do you wish would retire?

JC: The movement towards people drinking more balanced, lower-alcohol wines that pair well with food is here to stay.

GT: If there is a fad that I like it’s a returning to real cooking; creating food the way we have been doing it for years as opposed to putting everything in a vacuum sealer and cooking it with an immersion circulatory. I’d also like to see an end to club owners opening crappy restaurants.

What’s your favorite NYC breakfast restaurant? Place for coffee? Place for drinks?

JC: I love Maialino’s breakfast its streaming daylight and views of Gramercy Park. Café Grumpy (224 W. 20th St.; 212-255-5511) and Prodigy (33 Carmine St.; 212-414-4142) are my favorite coffee spots. Also I’ve been doing a radio show in Brooklyn and stop on the way in to Swallow (49 Bogart St.). Best drinks are at Little Branch (20 7th Ave. S.; 212-929-4360), Amor y Amargo (443 E. 6th St.; 212-614-6817) and Daddy-O (44 Bedford St.; 212-414-8884).

GT: I love the Breslin (16 W. 29th St.; 212-679-1939) breakfast.

Whose cooking in New York inspires you?

JC: The most incredible food I’ve had is Cesar Ramirez at Brooklyn Fare (200 Schermoerhorn St., Brooklyn; 718-243-0050) and I try to go there once a year. I love the food at Diner (85 Broadway, Brooklyn; 718-486-3077). And I was recently blown away by a great meal at Colicchio And Sons (85 10th Ave.; 212-400-6699).

GT: April Bloomfield, Mark Ladner, Anita Lo, Harold Dieterle

What do you foresee being your signature dish and drink?

JC: Polenta alla Spianatora (polenta spread on a board). The signature drink will be the dirty spicy martini, a gin martini with spicy B&G pickled pepper juice and celery bitters.

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Lamma

Lamma island is a fun excursion. Take the thirty-minute ferry from Hong Kong to the village of Yung Shue Wan, then hike to the seaside town of Sok Kwu Wan, which has a cluster of seafood restaurants, including the recommended Rainbow. After lunch, take a boat back to Hong Kong. The walk between the villages takes about forty minutes and can easily be accomplished by anyone in moderate shape.

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Learn about Wine: Petra

The people behind L’Andana also own a vineyard nearby called Petra. The cantina was designed by famed architect Mario Botta, who also designed the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. The hotel can book a visit and tasting for you.

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MEALS

The Istanbul restaurant scene is buzzing and fun; make reservations well in advance. Be sure to taste these local specialties: assorted mezze (hummus, eggplant dip, etc), kebap (aka kebabs), manti (similar to ravioli), stuffed pide (like pizza), braised fresh fish, hamsi if in season (a sardine-like fish), Turkish coffee (it’s unfiltered and very strong) and Turkish delights (chewy, bite-sized desserts).

Here are some quintessential experiences:

  • Dinner at a rooftop restaurant. Our top pick is Mikla, for its sublime farm-to-table Mediterranean food, chic crowd and panoramic views of the city skyline. The most coveted spots are those on the tiny outdoor terrace (open in summer), but all of the tables have good views. Sunset Grill is another solid option.
  • A meal on the Bosphorus. Aqua restaurant at the Four Seasons on the Bosphorus has a great outdoor terrace. Other good choices are Feriye Lokantasi and the House Café.
  • A kebap lunch. One local favorite is Hamdi Restaurant, on a rooftop by the waterfront right near the Egyptian Spice Bazaar.
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Mingle with the Locals: Compagnia dei Vinattieri, Siena

If you decide to spend a day in Siena, this wine bar and restaurant is a perfect place to stop. It boasts a wine list of over 800 labels and serves homemade breads and pastries and the freshest local ingredients and is suited for a light lunch or even dinner, depending on your schedule.

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Napa Now

Nothing much ever changes in California’s wine country—and that’s one of the region’s charms. Visitors can return after years and revisit favorites feeling like no time has passed at all. That said, in recent years, there have been shifts in the valley, some of which subtle, like the “greening” of more and more wineries, others obvious, like the opening of such big-name restaurants as Morimoto.

Here is a list of Indagare musts for your next Napa trip, as well as some favorite recommendations of local insiders, including vintners, chefs and plugged-in residents (full interviews with them will post soon).

Napa Valley Sweepstakes: Win a four-night trip to Napa, with stays at two of the valley’s most acclaimed properties: Auberge du Soleil and Calistoga Ranch.

Newcomer: Downtown Napa

With a redeveloped riverfront, an ever-growing, impressive farmer’s market and several good restaurant choices, Napa is no longer the town you drive through en route to the valley. Highlights worth stopping for include:

Insider Pick: “My favorite Napa newcomer in recent is Norman Rose Tavern in downtown Napa. I love its design and the relaxed atmosphere.” John Conover, owner of Cade Winery

Where to Stay: Best Hotels

  • Auberge du Soleil: This longtime favorite is still the top property in the valley that delivers on style, service, location and giving a real sense of place.
  • Bardesonno: Opened in 2009, it’s the only LEED Platinum certified hotel in California and a great option in Yountville, in midst of some of the valley’s best dining options.

Insider Pick: “A place that gives guests a piece of the valley is Milliken Creek by the Napa River. It is secluded and has a great spa, open only to hotel guests.” Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone, owners of Terra

Where to Eat: Big Night Out

  • Restaurant at Meadowood: Talented young chef Christopher Kostow is only the second Napa chef (after Thomas Keller) to earn three Michelin stars. His food is innovative, playful and has transformed the restaurant at Meadowood into the gourmet destination.
  • Auberge du Soleil: The renovated dining terrace of this Michelin one-star is one of the most scenic and romantic spots for a languorous meal
  • Terra: A relaxed but refined ambience and innovative cuisine from the chefs who also head the St. Regis’ Ame restaurant in San Francisco

Insider Pick: “Richard Reddington’s REDD is a major destination for seriously hip foodies who travel across the bay area nightly to dine at his restaurant.” Alexis Traina Swanson, of Swanson Vineyards

Where to Eat: Local Scene

  • Mustard’s Grill: A long-time mainstay in Yountville that has kept up with the newcomers thanks to its committed chef-owner Cindy Pawlcyn.
  • Bouchon: Heavier on ambiance and drawing a more casual, late-night clientele, Thomas Keller’s Bouchon bistro is a jewel-box affair.
  • Cook: A favorite local joint with an Italian-inspired menu.

Insider Pick: “On the way to Napa via the 101 from San Francisco, you can find the most delicious and old-fashioned Fremont Diner. It serves some of the best food in Northern California, and a stop here is a top priority!” Alexis Traina Swanson, Swanson Vineyards

Where to Drink: Off the Beaten Path

  • 750 Wines: The charming owners of this by-appointment shop, which opened in 2009, host tastings, special wine events and private functions.
  • Ma(i)sonery: This groovy two-level art and interior design gallery, sculpture garden and wine collective showcases the next generation of Napa’s tasting rooms.
  • Sip Room: Swanson Vineyard’s Sip Room is open to the public and offers a chic setting for casual tastings as well as a fun, well-stocked boutique.
  • Cade: It’s difficult to decide what’s more impressive: Cade’s focus on all-things green or its lofty location; suffice to say you’re tasting wine while lounging on cushy couches overlooking the valley.

Insider Pick: “Make an appointment to visit Quixote Winery near Yountville, the winery was designed by the Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser who was known for no straight lines and features a gold onion dome. The winery specializes in Cabernet and Petite Syrah.” Lissa Doumani and Hiro Sone, owners of Terra

The full interviews with our Napa insiders will post soon.

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SHOPPING

Beyond souvenirs, the Grand Bazaar mostly sells four types of product: (1) leather goods (preponderance of knock-off designer handbags); (2) jewelry (especially gold and silver); (3) tiles, bowls and other pottery; (4) rugs, pashminas, tablecloths and other textiles. You should pay no more than about a third of the initial price suggested; if you agree on a price for something, you will be expected to buy it.

The place is cacophonous and crowded and it’s easy to get disoriented. Afterwards, retreat to the quiet and beautiful Nar Lokanta (Armaggan Nuruosmaniye Store; 90 212-522-2800) for lunch, a short walk from Gate 1.

As a foodie, I prefer the Egyptian Spice Bazaar, which feels more authentic (more locals, fewer tourists, less wild price inflation). Stroll past vibrant triangular mounds of crimson paprika, yellow turmeric and red peppercorns; dried mangos, kiwis and anise; pistachios, cashews and walnuts; all kinds of Turkish delights; honeys; and flavored olive oils. My favorite stand is Develi Baharat (90 212 520 59 68; www.develispice.com) try their Turkish delight with pistachios, pomegranate juice and honey. Later, stop at nearby Hamdi for a kebap lunch.

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See Some Art

The avant-garde is in London’s spotlight this spring with many of the city’s most reputable galleries and museums emphasizing this game-changing genre of art. The Barbican studies four American modern masters influenced by the dada movement and the Tate Modern hosts a retrospective of Roy Lichtenstein. The National Portrait Gallery takes on Man Ray while the Tate Britain looks into the lesser-known but highly impactful Kurt Schwitter. After a fair amount of Pop Art viewing, fans can study one of the era’s most famous pop stars, David Bowie, who will enjoy a retrospective at the Victoria & Albert. Read more about what not to miss on stage this season.

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See a Performance

Just as Broadway is riddled with Hollywood stars these days, so are the London stages filled with famous names (blessedly many of whom had their start in the theater). Catch Dame Helen Mirren playing Queen Elizabeth II; Kristin Scott Thomas and Rufus Sewell taking on Harold Pinter; and Dame Judi Dench and Ben Whishaw in Peter and Alice, depicting the occasion when real-life Alice in Wonderland (Alice Liddell Hargreaves) met Peter Pan (Peter Llewellyn Davies). Read more about what not to miss on stage this season.

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Shop for Meat: Dario Cecchini, Panzano

This man is a butcher like one you have never known: he quotes Dante while slicing prosciutto and has become an institution in this tiny hamlet in Chianti. Not a place for vegetarians, you can have dinner at Dario’s restaurant Solociccia (which translates to “Just Meat”) at one of two nightly seatings. Dario also recently opened MacDario, his answer to fast food where he offers lunch everyday, except Sunday, for less than €20.

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Shop for Wine: Enoteca La Fortezza, Montalcino

If you are looking for a spiritual experience of a totally different kind, don’t miss the town of Montalcino, specifically the wine shop that is located in the fortress at the top of the city. The owner and those who work there really know their wines, as you can imagine. They offer wines by the glass, half glass or just a taste. If you go and have the occasion to try Soldera Brunello di Montalcino, do it. It is a beautiful wine.

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Stay in Style: Villa San Michele, Fiesole

Many choose not to stay here because if they were going to be this close to Florence, they would rather be in the historic center. But whether or not you choose to lodge at this gorgeous Orient Express property, you should definitely come for a cocktail at the Loggia Bar. The property is magnificent, and the view of Florence is unparalleled.

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TOURS

To do Istanbul properly, you will need a minimum of two full days of touring. Conveniently, the most essential sights are all in easy walking distance from each other in the Old City: the Hagia Sophia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the Archaeology Museum. Each is spectacular and a must. I suggest doing Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque at the beginning of the day, when you are fresh and can fully appreciate their beauty. At Topkapi Palace, make sure to visit the Harem Apartments, in particular the chambers of the sultans. The Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern are also fascinating and close by.

  • Yes, you need a guide. The city has extraordinary cultural riches and a good guide will add immeasurably to the experience. From a practical standpoint, you will also be expedited through admission lines that would otherwise consume half your day (in high season, you might wait two hours to enter the Hagia Sophia,). Our booking department would be happy to arrange a guide for you.
  • If you have a third day, two lovely sights are the Church of St Savior in Chora (exquisite frescoes and gold mosaics) and the Suleymaniye Mosque.
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Take a Dance Class

Venerable hotel Claridge’s is offering monthly roaring ‘20s Jazz classes in its elegant Ballroom. London-based, flapper dance troupe The Bee’s Knees instruct guests (who have the option of adding sequined headbands, strings of pearls and elbow-length satin gloves to their attire) on everything from the bunny hop to the Josephine Baker. The debut class in February was such a hit that Claridge’s is considering extending the lessons beyond the scheduled May 13 end date. The next Master Class is scheduled for March 18.

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Take the Train

Guests staying in the historic part of the St. Pancras Renaissance, the gothic hotel that sits above the Eurostar station, can wait in their room or the hotel’s bar until thirty minutes before departure. The hotel’s concierge or butler, who has been given security clearance, then escorts the guests with a trolley through Eurostar’s Fast Track and up a private elevator straight onto the platform. The service also works in reverse so if a guest is coming in from Brussels, Paris or Lyon, the St Pancras concierge can wait for him on the platform, ready to whisk him to his room.

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The Classics

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from repeat visits to St. Barth’s, it’s that keeping up with the new restaurants can complicate a return to old favorites. But there are a few I do visit every time, and I won’t miss them on any future trips. For me, long lunches at Do Brazil and Nikki Beach are musts – one for the relaxed setting on Shell Beach and the other for the fun crowd and endless bottles of rosé – as is a low-key night at the Hideaway, a classic dive in St. Jean. Bagatelle has proven that good food and tabletop dancing can go hand-in-hand, while Bonito, with its excellent ceviches and beautiful views over the Gustavia harbor, continues to be my top pick for a romantic dinner. When evenings run late, groups inevitably drift to Le Yacht Club (or the new Le First Floor, located, shockingly, on the first floor of the club), where the people-watching never gets old.

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Touring Biennale: Tips

“Plan a full day to visit the Giardini and a half-day to a full day to visit the Arsenale. The key word is preparation. Because there are a massive amount of places to visit and art to be seen it requires to study preliminarily what is the most appealing to your own tastes. I strongly encourage visitors who want to take advantage of the Biennale to do their homework before going. I would consult websites such as the Art Newspaper (www.theartnewspaper.com), Artforum (artforum.com) and Flashart (www.flashartonline.com), as well the official Biennale Web site (www.labiennale.org). Muriel Quancard

Get a map that depicts all the external pavilions scattered throughout Venice. Stefano Attombri

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Uncover: Hot Neighborhoods

The neighborhood Nopa has a sort of emerging-but-still-gritty appeal. The place to go now is Hayes Valley, with its brand new SF Jazz Center and dozens of funky, independent boutiques. Read more.

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Visiting the Museums: Finds

At the dynamic Museo Vedova at Magazzini del Sale, designed by Renzo Piano, where you can see Vedova’s paintings like floating in the air. Serena Vianello

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WHEN TO GO

Because it’s on the water, Istanbul is particularly enjoyable in the warm weather (June to September), when you can eat al fresco and swim. However, it’s so vibrant culturally that you can still have a wonderful trip there off season, when you have the benefit of visiting masterpieces like the Hagia Sophia with a minimum of crowds, and restaurant reservations at hot spots like Mikla aren’t so hard to come by. Avoid August (hot and crowded) and December/January (may be snowy).

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Walk: Wanderings with a Purpose

The Exploratorium is a fantastic addition to the Embarcadero, the stretch of waterfront that’s been completely transformed in recent years. In the warm spring sunshine, you can’t beat a walk by the bay. From the Exploratorium it’s a short distance to the San Francisco Ferry Building, and its dizzying array of gourmet eateries and food shops. Read more.

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