Destination: Germany: Berlin

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Neues Museum

The transformation of Berlin’s museum

By Edwin Heathcote

Published: February 27 2009 23:28 | Financial Times

“Berlin used to be a city haunted by its ruins. From the vast, dark shell of the Reichstag to the shattered skeleton of the tower of the Gedächtniskirche church, ruins littered the city, while the great scar of the Berlin Wall smashed through the centre. Every ruin was a potent symbol of war and the arbitrariness of partition, each carried within it layers of memory and history.

But since reunification and Berlin’s re-instatement as capital, the ruins have been restored and urban scars are healed. As the ruins disappear, the city is changing not just in character but in memory, perhaps modernising, perhaps lobotomising, certainly deliberately forgetting.

One ragged building held out longer than most: The Neues Museum, the last ruin on Berlin’s outstanding Museum Island. Now, it too has been restored. The work, by British architect David Chipperfield, has been executed with skill, intelligence and delicacy and, instead of a lumpen wedding cake of conjectured reproduction (look only to Dresden’s gold-plated Frauenkirche or the proposed kitsch reconstruction of the nearby Hohenzollern Palace), it has become one of the most moving and beautiful buildings in the city….” Read more

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Tales from Berlin

From Tiffany Schauer, Florida

“I just spent a couple of weeks exploring Berlin. The city is a fascinating locale deep in political and financial transition. It is financially depressed making it a haven for artists, musicians, writers, intellectuals, and creatives. There is enough space to breathe, while sufficient density of talent, cuisine, art, entertainment, history, and shopping to keep you occupied indefinitely.

These are slivers of my trip:

1. Louisa’s Place, Kurfurstendamm 160 D-10709 Berlin. A cozy hotel on the main shopping drag of Berlin. It has an indoor pool, sauna, and steamroom, and spa. room service from restaurant downstairs. It’s somewhat pricey for Berlin but really comfortable. Some slips in service: steam room didn’t work and no massage therapist available for the spa (all week?). Suites have kitchens which is fun.

2. Schwarzes Cafe, Kanstrasse 148. Fun café, open 24 hours. Good food and boho atmosphere.

3. Rocco Hotel De Rome, Behrenstrasse 37. Great place to start evening with drinks. Swanky hotel—really expensive for Berlin.

There is shopping for everybody for anything in Berlin. Here are a few of my finds:

1. The Corner Berlin, Knesebeckstrasse 32. Good selection of high-end designer stuff. Beautiful display and fun atmosphere. I could find everything here in New York, though.

2. Rosie Schuhhaus, Sybelstrasse 60. A funky shoe store with cool European “sensible shoes.” I bought two pairs to walk around the city.

3. Mommsenstrasse – Great second hand shops on this street. It’s also a really beautiful street to stroll down….

4. Salon, Hute & Accessoires, Bleibtreustrasse 40. Sweet little hat shop. I took my American hat to get fitted (10 euros). I also bought a cool brown felt fedora. It looks like everything is made in the shop. Really fun for hat lovers.

5. KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens)Tauentziehnstraße, Berlin-Schöneberg. The Harrods of Germany. excellent locale to spend a rainy day….. I had a Champagne at 6th floor Champagne bar (there are several). Then I wondered around in blissful state of tipsyness….

6. Winterfeld Market, Winterfeld platz in Schoeneberg. Saturday organic market. Cruise around the market. Outside the market are a selection of coffee shops; you can find a chair in the sun, read the paper and watch the parade of humanity pass by…..

I will try to write more on art gallery and art later…”

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