According to the Wall Street Journal, the toughest table to book in Shanghai is one of the four at the tiny restaurant Chun, which specializes in home-style regional cuisine.

Read Shanghai’s Four Hot Tables

Authentic dim sum. Expect long lines.

Specializes in Hunan food, which is very spicy.

Whether you’re looking to come here for lunch or dinner, you have to ask your concierge to make a reservation at this local hot spot. If you do, chances are you will be one of only few Westerners in this tiny place. Don’t be intimidated, though: the wait staff is friendly and the menu translated (it helps to get your concierge to write down the Chinese names of some classic Shanghai dishes to make sure you get a good mix of food). The food is classic, simple and deliciously prepared Shanghainese, meaning a little sweet and uncomplicated. When I had lunch here with my husband, we sampled fried rice laced with pork sausage and vegetables, sweet glazed pork ribs, sautéed snow peas prepared with lots of garlic, and tiny dates stuffed with glutinous rice, all the while watching the surrounding tables grow more boisterous with every glass of rice wine consumed. It was the first—and only—time I felt like Shanghai slowed down enough to reveal a glimpse of its nostalgic, old-world self. Don’t miss Jesse for an authentic local experience.

Parts of Lost Heaven, the wildly popular restaurants (there are two branches) featuring Yunnan folk cuisine are admittedly gimmicky. The wait staff is dressed in the traditional, colorful costumes of the Yunnan region (which encompasses parts of southwestern China), which would be charming if the place wasn’t so large that it also required them to wear ear pieces into which they discreetly place the orders. The sultry, black-and red-clad space, enhanced by a groovy soundtrack, brings to mind the early days of Buddha Bar.

That said, the food here is unique, beautifully prepared, reasonably priced and consistently delicious, which explains the crowds, especially on weekends. It’s a fun spot to come with a big group and to try as much as possible from the large menu, which is illustrated with photos of the region and of the food (helpful when it comes to deciding between such dishes as tea-leaf salad and Yunnan scrambled eggs with white-mushroom). Some of the bites showcase the signature Yunnan heat, but not everything is spicy, making this a great spot for picky or timid eaters as well. There’s also a good selection of vegetarian dishes.

The original branch is in a lovely Colonial villa in the French Concession; larger and more flashy is the second outpost just off the Bund, a good choice for guests of the Peninsula Shanghai, Fairmont Peace Hotel or Waldorf Astoria Shanghai and looking for a good local option that doesn’t require another taxi ride. After or before dinner, the glamorous Bund bars are all a quick walk away.

Szechuan food in a restored historic house.

Located in the Hilton Hotel, it’s known for its duck and noodles.

THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED. Chinese home cooking in an old China setting.