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As far as culinary capitals go, Vienna doesn’t have the cachet of London or Paris, but what the city lacks in Michelin stars it makes up for in Gemütlichkeit and creative dishes that balance tradition and innovation. Take, for instance, the Österreicher, the restaurant adjacent to the Museum of Applied Arts: in a soaring space dominated by a luminous chandelier made of glass bottles, chef Helmut Österreicher presents a menu that’s literally divided into “classic” and “modern” cuisines. Setting and design are equally important, as seen in places like Milo or the dramatic Palais Coburg. Also popular are the intimate Kim Kocht and Ein Wiener Salon, where daily-changing menus are prepared for just a few guests. Reservations are essential, as Viennese love to go out and favorite spots book fast, especially on weekends.

A word of advice: It may seem incredible that while cities like Dublin and Paris have banned smoking in public places, Vienna has yet to follow suit. (If you ask locals about it, you’re most likely to get a ranting lecture about the loss of personal rights.) Europe’s antismoking laws will surely make their way to the Austrian capital but until this happens, expect restaurants, cafés and bars to be very smoky. There are a few exceptions— Café Griensteidl and Phil, a cool café-bookstore hybrid, ban smoking altogether—but in most cases you will have to accept the lingering nicotine scent as part of your Viennese experience.