Destination: Austria: Vienna
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Demel
Arguably Vienna’s most renowned patisserie, Demel bestows that quintessential kid-in-a-candy-store feeling, with colorful displays of pastries, chocolates and bonbons. Until 1965, Demel was famously involved in a drawn-out legal battle with the Sacher about the origins of the Sachertorte, as both claimed it started in their pastry kitchens. The legendary hotel won, though Demel still sells its own version. To get torte technical: the Sacher’s cake has a thin layer of apricot jam in the center, while Demel’s has its right underneath the dark-chocolate glaze.
There are tons of other cakes and pastries to choose from here, including a delicious Linzertorte and caloric Schwarwälderkirschtorte. The small café in the back feels crammed, so takeout is a better option. Demel’s old-world candies, like fruit jellies, pink sugar-covered almonds, petit four assortments and candied violets (a favorite of Empress Sissi), make pretty hostess gifts. Open daily.
TIP: The restored Plaza in New York has a small outpost of the patisserie as part of its shops—it’s Demel’s first foray in the States.
Manner
The square wafers filled with hazelnut cream can be purchased all over Vienna—and, frankly, at most delis in New York —but if you’re traveling with children, the Manner headquarters, opposite the Stephansdom, is a treat. Josef Manner, who founded this confectionary company in 1890, could not have dreamed up the countless variations on his original recipe that are sold in the boutique today, including an oversized package of wafers that looks like a prop from the movie Big. The Manner Schnitte has long been considered a cult product in Vienna; At First Sight even sells laminated change purses made of the signature peach wrappers.
Meinl am Graben
This famous delicatessen at the end of the Graben, a short walk from the Stephansdom, carries gourmet staples from all over the world—think Dean & DeLuca gone wild. The product displays, from Belgian chocolates and Italian olive oil to British black pudding and Russian caviar, come with small flags that identify the country of origin. It’s great for putting together an international picnic (the Volksgarten, a green oasis, is nearby). There’s a small café on the ground floor, and the acclaimed Meinl Am Graben restaurant is hidden behind the well-stocked cheese counter on the second level. Closed Sunday.
Schoko Laden Werkstatt
Owner Brigitte Ullmann comes from a long line of pâtissiers, leading her to open this haven dedicated to all things chocolate in 2006. Looking much like the set for the movie Chocolat, the elegant white-walled shop features a huge array of products, sourced from all across Europe, including tea infused with cocoa beans and cinnamon as well as gourmet chocolate bars spiced with chili. The large variety of homemade truffles and pralines come in pretty boxes.
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