Destination: Budapest

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Elfenbein Paplan

Gioia Zwack recommends this company that custom-makes goose-down comforters in a variety of sizes.

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Magma

This 2,000-square-foot gallery and store features the contemporary work of some thirty Hungarian artisans, including textile, glass and jewelry designers, goldsmiths, ceramists and graphic artists. The front of the store is a showcase for elegant tabletop items, like sets of colorful linen napkins, unique glass platters and gorgeous sculpted vases, and the back is dedicated to such hip accessories as Balkan Tango’s ultracool round handbags made with vinyl records. A fun souvenir is one of the small flip books of Budapest’s most famous sights. Closed Sunday.

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Porcelain

Zsolnay (www.zsolnay.hu) and Herend (www.herendherald.hu), Hungary’s two most famous porcelain manufactories, were both established in the 19th century and flourished during the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Zsolnay-made tiles and decorative objects, all crafted with the company’s signature iridescent glazes, were used in many of the city’s grandest buildings, like the Gresham Palace. Herend, meanwhile, was favored by foreign courts: Queen Victoria fell in love with a large table service at the London World Exhibition of 1851 and ordered the entire set. Today, Zsolnay—which was bought by a private equity company in 2003—is the lesser known of the two, and offers the better value if you’re going to buy porcelain in Budapest. Look for the gorgeous oversize necklaces made in collaboration with fashion designer Katti Zoób. The main Zsolnay branch is located at V. Kígyó Utca 2-4, near Váci Utca; 36 (1) 318-3712.

Herend’s hand-painted porcelain is available everywhere from Tokyo to Los Angeles, and the price tags you’ll see in Budapest are roughly comparable to the ones back home. You may, however, be able to find special, not readily available patterns, like the decorative chinoiserie-inspired Gödöllö, at the main branch, József Nádor Tér 11; 36 (1) 317-2622.

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