Destination: Chicago
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Charlie Trotter’s
It has racked up ten James Beard awards and made its namesake chef a worldwide celebrity, and although it’s been around for twenty years, Charlie Trotter’s is still a wonderful culinary experience. Consisting of three rooms (each with ten tables) in a brownstone, the restaurant has a sedate, dignified atmosphere. The decor may be a bit tired, but the cuisine shines, with dishes that are impeccably prepared and surprisingly light. Diners have a choice of two set menus that change daily, highlight the finest market ingredients and run about eight or nine courses. Particularly delightful is the Vegetarian Menu ($130), which at a recent meal started with a refreshing sweet ice made from Thai basil. The Grand Degustation ($155) menu may feature, for example, roasted Muscovy duck with bitter melon and Szechuan-infused duck consommé. Serious foodies reserve three to four months in advance to snag the six-top in the kitchen, where a member of the culinary team serves and explains each of the fifteen or so impromptu courses. The spot is crowded and noisy but at the center of the action. Seatings are at 6 and 9 p.m.; reserve well in advance and allow two to three hours. Usually closed Monday.
NoMI
Walking into NoMI, on the seventh floor of the Park Hyatt hotel, you are immediately immersed in a sexy, vibrant scene. A young, hip crowd sips martinis and nibbles on sushi in the lounge area. The festive dining room, decorated with wacky, octopus-like Dale Chihuly glass chandeliers, has a wall of windows that tilt out over historic Water Tower Place, which looks almost like a castle when lit at night. Executive chef Christophe David prepares seasonal contemporary French cuisine with a twist: take his cheeky Burgundy truffle appetizer with “Foie Blond” crème brûlée. Dinner may include langoustine risotto with braised hearts of palm and sweet-corn foam; rib eye with smoked cherries and chanterelles; or Hawaiian opah with chorizo-piquillo coulis and glazed summer vegetables.
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