Destination: Chicago

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Sepia

Opened in July 2007 by Emmanuel Nony, a charming Frenchman who looks a little like Sting, Sepia is already buzzing. The dining room, in a restored 1890s print shop, has a warm ambiance, with exposed brick walls, custom Art Nouveau tile floors and communal tables. “We tried to keep a lot of the original architectural details,” Nony explains. “Like the setting, the cuisine is inspired by tradition and craftsmanship; it’s rustic and simple but prepared with the best materials.” Chef Kendal Duque, whose provenance includes stints at Masa, in San Francisco, and Tru, emphasizes local, often organic ingredients. You might start with thin crispy flatbread with applewood-smoked bacon and Berkshire blue cheese and progress to the delicious frisée salad with sherry vinegar and spicy lamb sausage. Save room for dessert; I love the bittersweet-chocolate crêpes with fresh figs and pistachio ice cream. The cocktail menu features tempting homemade specialties, like the Pear Nectar (pear-and-green-tea-infused gin with agave nectar).

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