Destination: Chicago

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Blackbird

Paul Kahan, who owns Blackbird and Avec, is one of Chicago’s most influential restaurateurs, and foodies and fellow chefs tend to speak of him in reverential terms. One bite at Blackbird and you’ll know why. Set in a spare, loft-like space in the West Loop, the restaurant has a simple but striking aesthetic: black-and-white decor, long gray banquettes, a big open kitchen, a slightly industrial vibe and a whole wall of windows overlooking the street. Even at noon it’s packed with diners feasting on the ambrosial bouillabaisse, made with a garlicky basil-saffron broth; the seared loin of venison with chiogga beets, cauliflower and almond puree, or the sauteed pike brandade with fennel, amaranth, and candied cocoa nibs. Expect to be dazzled by such innovative concoctions as bacon ice cream—sweet, salty, smoky and simply delectable. And for dessert, don’t miss the light-as-a-feather mission-fig beignets with oranges and butterscotch. Reserve well in advance. Closed Sunday.

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Green Zebra

Any restaurant named for an heirloom tomato variety is bound to be serious about fresh organic produce, and so it is with the Green Zebra, a mostly vegetarian restaurant that opened in West Town (near downtown) in 2004. The plates are small, which is a good thing, since you’ll likely want to taste a whole range of them: fresh burrata cheese with smoked radicchio, sunchoke and apricot mostarda; slow-roasted shiitake mushrooms in a crispy potato; sweet-potato tart with bourbon maple syrup, blue cheese and roasted shallot; root-vegetable cassoulet. And now the secret’s out: last year chef Shawn McClain, who also owns Chicago’s much lauded Spring and Custom House restaurants, won the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef Midwest. Closed Mondays.

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RL

RL, situated on the ground floor of the Ralph Lauren store, feels like the library of an English gentleman’s club—dim lighting, wood paneling, leather chairs and lots of books—except that most of the patrons are chic women. Many are fresh from shopping jaunts on the Magnificent Mile; others are meeting girlfriends for lunch. The walls are chockablock with gilt-framed paintings and contemporary black-and-white photographs, a provocative mix that somehow works perfectly. The crowd is buzzing, the whole place cacophonous and fun. Such classics as Dover sole and chicken hash share the menu with more singular items, like the lobster club sandwich with truffle mayonnaise and bacon. The salads are great; I loved the arugula with pine nuts and shaved Parmesan in a tangy sherry-shallot vinaigrette. Since RL is open until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, it’s a popular spot for late-night dining. There’s also a small mahogany bar up front.

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