More Photos (5)

Considering that this is where Leonardo DiCaprio stayed when he and Gisele Bündchen visited a few years ago, it is not surprising that this is the region’s best-known resort. Many loyal beach bums have made annual pilgrimages here since it opened a decade ago. That means, unfortunately, that if you are not a regular or have one who is willing to pull some strings, it can be nearly impossible to secure a room during the high period.

The main house was once the private residence of legendary Brazilian singer Gal Costa and now houses a dining room, living room and TV room. Its verandah, lined with rocking chairs, faces a fabulous pool and beyond it a twenty-mile long white sand beach. The décor is typical beach chic with lots of white linens, mosquito-net draped beds and Indian crafts or bright pillows to add a splash of color. The twenty-eight guestrooms are located in cottages fanning out around the property. Most of the rooms are doubles with small verandahs in the garden but there is one Master Suite with its own plunge pool and a view of the sea. Huge daybeds surround the pool area and a giant thatched hut on the dunes has comfortable seating for those who want to get out of the sun without leaving the beach scene. There’s a small gym and boutique and the concierge can arrange water sports and excursions. No children under eleven are permitted. Rooms from $384.

Indagare members get preferred treatment, so be sure to let us know if plan a visit.

Tip: Whether you stay here or elsewhere, be sure to come for lunch at one of the tables between the pool and the dunes and to stop in at the small Richard’s outpost for some shopping.

More Photos (8)

On the dirt road that leads out of the town of Trancoso and toward the beach, you pass many large gates leading to private villa estates. Thankfully, one such property was bought five years ago by American Galen Briggs, who came to Bahia on vacation and decided to make it his home. He has transformed the fifteen-acre parcel into a wonderful, small resort. Five one- and two-bedroom villas are scattered around the property along with a main house containing the dining room, bar and small library. Built out of Brazilian woods, all of the villas feature indigenous details such as quari-quara tree columns, locally woven rugs and regional crafts and all-important air-conditioning, but expect simple and clean not glitzy.

The atmosphere matches the dress code: bare feet and bathing suits. There’s a pool, but the main draw is the gorgeous beach that is reached via a small wooden walkway surrounded by mangroves. You step out from beneath an archway of branches to a gloriously wide and mostly deserted beach, which is set up with an outdoor gym of sorts and beyond that a row of chaises facing the surf. When I stayed last year, even though the hotel was full, only once did we share the beach area with any other guests—probably because one of the main activities is exploring other beaches. The white sand expanse here is lapped by gentle waves, the kind that were ideal for our young kids to practice their body surfing in.

The Crowd: Our fellow guests were attractive couples in their 20s on holiday from City jobs in London and a stylish Paulista with her mother and sisters; she was planning her wedding at the hotel. American guests are rare but Al and Tipper Gore did stay in the new Villa Golf.

Room To Get: The Villa Sky commands the center of the resort and consists of a two-story great room with a bar, a dining and living area and, upstairs, a large bedroom and bathroom. For a family the hotel will set up roll-away beds. The staff is also happy to deliver meals to your room.

Villa To Book: Briggs is an avid golfer and has added a four-bedroom Villa Golf on the 18-hole course Terravista, which is set on dramatic cliffs over the beach about two kilometers from the resort. This is where Al and Tipper Gore hid out.

Activities: Terravista has been ranked the #1 Golf Course in Latin America. Designed by Dan Blankenship, it offers 18 holes on a dramatic clifftop site overlooking the Atlantic.

Rooms from $366 a night, depending on the season. Villas from $664 a night, depending on the season.