Destination: St. Moritz

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Lunch: Unlike the United States, lunch is a major event in Switzerland even on powder days. St. Moritz has a number of fabulous restaurants on the side of the mountain that are run by the farmers whose cows graze on these pastures in the winter. They are usually mid-slope in small stone huts with snow-laden roofs. Their outdoor terraces usually face south to take full advantage of the afternoon sun. My favorites on Piz Nair are the Alpina Hütte just above the top of the Corviglia lift, and the Paradiso Hütte near Suvretta. On the Corvatsch Glacier, there is a small restaurant between the top and mid-station whose name I can’t remember, but has a view to die for. The more commercial venues are only average. The sole exception is Restaurant Mathis, which is in the tram building at the top of Corviglia. It is a five-star place serving Champagne and caviar burgers.

Dinner: Evening meals are sensational, although you’ll be surprised how expensive wine is. The best restaurant is probably the Chesa Veglia (832-2800) owned by the Palace, just up the hill from the hotel. There are two dining rooms, the grill (fancy), and the pizzeria (not as casual as it sounds). Nearby are the Chadofo Grill, Patrizier Stueben, and Pizzeria Heuboden. I love the sleighride in the Fextal to a little hotel for fondue, or the Engadin in town. We also like the Krone on via Tinus (less formal, family style, with beautiful paneling) for its raclette. Near the Suvretta House on the edge of town is Restaurant Chasellas.”

From a longtime regular visitor from N.Y.

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