Destination: Tokyo

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Tsukiji Market

Specimens of everything that swims in the ocean, scuttles on the shoreline or inhabits a shell can be found at Tokyo’s early-morning fish market. The Japanese have a tremendous appetite for seafood, from tiny sprats to tuna steaks; and because they have such huge purchasing power, they will pay whatever it takes to bring the finest seafood from wherever it is caught. Arrayed around the stalls of the Tsukiji fish market are flying fish from New Zealand, crab and lobster from the east coast of the United States, garoupa from the close-by Pacific Ocean and cod from the cold waters of the Atlantic. It all ends up on slabs or in tanks for wholesale supply to the restaurants and shops of Tokyo’s huge urban sprawl. The prime cuts are sought by top sushi chefs and by cooks in the fine Western dining rooms of the five-star hotels. The tuna auctions, hurly-burly affairs at which bidders bawl and wave while the auctioneer hosts the proceedings with a brusque style and a bellowing voice, make fascinating watching. You’ll need an ultra-early start to catch the action at Tsukiji, as much of the business is over by 7 a.m. After a hearty early morning’s work, the traders head for sushi breakfast (with beer!) at one of the tiny restaurants dotting the market’s fringes. Visitors are made welcome.

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