Destination: Milan

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Bulgari Hotel Milan

Hidden in a quiet, leafy cul-de-sac off the Fashion Triangle and near the Botanical Gardens, the four-year-old Bulgari—the fashion house’s debut hotel—has a cold white marble façade and a staff that’s less friendly and more intimidating than that at the Four Seasons. But personalities like Zaha Hadid and Derek Lam stay here, perhaps because they like the privacy and the contemporary surroundings. The fifty-eight rooms and suites are minimalist but glamorous—enormous inviting beds swathed in silky white linen are framed by bleached-oak walls and dark-wood floors. Spa-like bathrooms with deep tubs and rain showerheads seem sculpted from smooth blocks of sand-colored marble. The Asian-inspired interiors continue in the public spaces, from the intimate spa to the dramatic restaurant, which resembles a small modern theater. But it’s the serene garden that sets this hotel apart; as soon as it’s warm enough to lounge outdoors, guests relax over drinks on the terrace. Rooms from 650 euros (about $1,025).

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Four Seasons Hotel Milano

Set in the heart of the famous Quadrilatero d’Oro on the Via Gesù (look out a window on one side and you might be able to peak into Donatella Versace’s backyard), the Four Seasons Milano is a consistent favorite with American travelers—thanks to the unbeatable location, impeccable service and understated decor. Some expert travelers call it the five-star chain’s top property in Western Europe; I’d say it ties with the Four Seasons Istanbul. Originally a convent built in the 1400s, the structure had been a maze of apartments before the Four Seasons acquired it in 1987; during the renovation, ancient columns and frescoes were uncovered in what is now the lobby and the adjacent lounge. Also notable are the lobby’s people-watching opportunities—and the bar’s lively piano man, Franco, who plays every evening from 7:30 pm-11:30 pm. When I visited recently with my newborn, he serenaded us with lullabies as a parade of exceptionally fashionable and fabulous people—locals and tourists—passed by. It was well worth the high price (more than $20) of a cocktail. 2009 will see the opening of Il Teatro, new restaurant, as well as a 15,000-square-foot spa and an indoor swimming pool. Rooms from $884.

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Town House Galleria

Located in the prestigious Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, above Prada’s headquarters, the new Town House Galleria is giving the nearby ultraluxurious Park Hyatt a run for its money, literally: the rooms here start at about $1,300 a night. But with its anything-is-possible service (staff can even arrange VIP access to The Last Supper) and only twenty-four suites, each with a private assistant/butler, rare wine in the minibar and welcome caviar, the hotel has been fully booked almost since it opened in March 2007. Designer Ettore Mocchetti, who also happens to be editor in chief of Italian Architectural Digest, went to great lengths to make every suite special, including bedding down in each to make sure the position of the furniture (an eclectic mix of collectible pieces from a range of centuries) and the lighting were just right. Rooms from 800 euros (about $1,300).

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