From Fiona Caulfield, author of the Love India travel guide series:

“All Delhi-ites have their own favorite Chaiwallah, the tea vendor who appears on every street.

Some will have their own tea stall and others will be carrying a kettle with a wire cage of tumblers, all with their own distinctive brew. Choosing the best in the city is fraught with controversy.

My best chai experience was at the Rajasthani food stall at Dilli Haat late one winter afternoon. The piping hot sweet brew arrived in a good-looking and environmentally friendly clay mug called a khullad. A second cup was essential and delightful.”

From Fiona Caulfield, author of the Love India travel guide series:

“All Dilliwallahs and all tourist guides recommend Karim’s as a ‘must-do’ experience, so whilst on the tourist trail, it is an authentic and good experience. Tucked away in the congested lanes of Old Delhi, getting there is half the fun. Karim’s has been serving traditional Mughlai cuisine since 1913 and is a carnivore’s paradise, selling over 450 kilos of mutton and 1,200 kilos of chicken every day.

Try the special, which requires a day’s notice and at least 20 friends to help you eat it. The Tandoori bakra (a bargain at Rs.5,0000) is a roasted lamb stuffed with chickens, biryani and eggs, all liberally garnished with cashews and raisins. Open daily 7 am to midnight.”

From Fiona Caulfield, author of the Love India travel guide series:

“Overlooking the landscaped lawns of Joseph Stein’s beautifully designed Triveni Kala Sangam, the Tea Terrace is a much-loved Delhi institution. For decades it was the hub for radicals, artists, writers and thinkers. The sign board sums it up: ‘staff, students, artists and art lovers only. Outsiders not permitted.’

Triveni has been updated over time and yet still serves an honest wholesome menu and low prices. The keema parathas are legendary along and there are excellent kebabs, omelettes, sandwiches, cakes and delicious hot tea.”