Destination: Delhi

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Agra

From Fiona Caulfield, author of the Love India travel guide series:

Agra is home to the Taj Mahal, wonder of the world, world heritage site, symbol of eternal love, ‘teardrop on the cheek of time.’

The Taj Mahal is the iconic symbol of India and the most-visited tourist destination on the subcontinent. Here’s how to do it in style.

WHERE TO STAY

Oberoi Amarvilas Hotel

Taj East Gate Rd.

91-562-223-1515

www.oberoihotels.com

All 102 rooms and suites overlook the Taj Mahal, which is just 600 meters away. This is the only hotel with a view of the monument and it’s a palatial property with terraced lawns, fountains, a stunning swimming pool and an excellent spa.

Many of the premier rooms have private open-air terraces. It is expensive, rooms start at Rs.30,000, but worth it, even for just one night1

Other Place to Stay:

Laxmi Vilas Palace

Old Agra Rd., Bharatpur

91-564-423-1199

www.laxmivilas.com

Many hotels in Agra lack charm. An interesting option is to stay in Bharatpur, 45 km from Agra and 24 km from Fatehpur Sikri, on the road to Jaipur. The quirky heritage property backs on to the bird sanctuary and is good value.

BEST EXPERIENCE

The Taj Mahal

Open daily from 6 am to 7 pm, except Fridays. Go early for the iconic Princess Diana ‘alone on the beach’ photograph.

Time your visit during a full moon period. Open two day prior and two days post, tickets must be booked in advance. For dates, check with the Archaeological Survey India (asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_agratajmahal_night.asp).

Fatehpur Skikri

Located 40 km from Agra, this magnificent fortified city was the capital of Mughal Empire from 1571 to 1585 when it was abandoned due to lack of water. The red sandstone city remains perfectly preserved. A ‘must-do’.

WHAT TO BUY

Agra is famed for marble inlay and leather goods. However, the shopping available in the city is uninspiring. At the Oberoi, visit Tijori, the Gem Palace, Ritika Bookstore and the specialist cashmere shop.

Saray Design (located in Delhi)

91-11-4174-8991

www.saraydesign.com.uk

Saray Design is the course for exquisite marble carving and inlay work inspired by the beauty of the Taj Mahal. Founded by respected author and scholar, Mitchell Crites, Saray employs many master artisans who are direct descendants of the craftsmen who worked on the Taj Mahal. The Saray Gallery is in London and they have a design studio in Delhi used for architectural projects and bespoke craftsmanship.

WHERE TO EAT

The Oberoi

The Oberoi offers romantic dining in private garden pavillions. The Indian restaurant Esphahan is open for in-house guests only. Bellevue, the multi-cuisine restaurant, and the bar are open to non-guests.

GETTING THERE

Agra is a one-hour flight from Delhi. Kingfisher Airlines operates this route, departing Delhi at 7:55 am. The Oberoi private air-charter servie is available for Rs. 200,000 per flight.

The fastest train is the Shatabdi Express, taking two hours, departing Delhi at 6:15 am. The Taj Express takes 3 hours and departs Delhi at 7 am. The Shatabdi is recommended for the return trip, departing Agra at 8:30 pm.

The 190 km drive takes up to 5 hours, About 2 hours into the journey is the temple town of Mathur Vrindavan (www.mathuravrindavan.com) where Krishna was born and frolicked with the gopis. Home to many famous temples, which close between noon and 4 pm.

GETTING AROUND

From the Oberoi you are shuttled the short distance to the Taj Mahal in golf buggies. Chauffer-driven chaassic ambassadors are available for sightseeing trips. Local taxis and autos are everywhere, but the tourist frenzy and haggling is bad.”

LIBRARY

In the Shadow of Taj: A Portrait of Agra.

For more Day Trips from Delhi, order Love Delhi Travel Guide, available online at Longitude Books, the Conran Shop and Amazon.

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Amritsar

From Fiona Caulfield, author of the Love India travel guide series:

Located in the northwest part of India in the state of Punjab, Amritsar is a border town, home to the most famous Sikh temple in the world and is at the center of the Sikh faith.

WHERE TO STAY

Ranjit’s Svaasa Hotel

47A The Mall

91-183-256-6618; 91-183-329-8840

www.svassa.com

Svaasa, opened in 2003, describes itself as a heritage boutique spa resort and it is indeed trying to be all of these things. The 250-year-old ancestral hom is now the main hotel and the main corrider is lined with family photographs.

Stay in the Regal and Classic Rooms on the first floor with a shared terrace or enjoy good views from the top floor in the Rattanchand or Mohandchand Suites, both named after family members. Avoid the Kalyasingh suite that is in the new building. Rooms begin at Rs. 5,000, suites from Rs. 6,500.

BEST EXPERIENCE

The Golden Temple

The most famous Sikh temple in the world is breathtaking. A place of great serenity. Early morning is a lovely time to visit, also wonderful in the evenings at the Night Palki when the Guru Granth Sahib (the holy book) is put to rest.

The Wagh Border

India and Pakistan perform a daily beating of the retreat, similar to the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, but with more patriotic gusto. The elaborately dressed guards goose step to and from the border to perform the flag ceremony. Starts at 5 pm.

WHERE TO SHOP

A stroll around the bazaars in the old walled city is a ‘must-do’. The myriad stalls have all of the Sikh accessories and there are some wonderful turban shops.

Ranuk

Located opposite Gandhi Gate

91-183-254-0999

A good place to pick up local leather footwear, Punjabi Juttis. Open daily 9 am-9 pm.

Essma Woolen Mills

G.t. Rd, Putligargh

91-183-222-6252

On the way to Wagah, pop into Essma for locally made scarves, blankets and some nice tweed. Prices start from Rs. 150.

WHERE TO EAT

Amritsar is famed for hearty treet foods including delicious hoot jalebis and lovely lassi.

Crystal Chowk

91-183-222-555; 91-183-222-6666

This 60-year-old family run restaurant serves delicious Punjabi food in a contemporary and comfortable setting. Alcohol is not available, officially. Open daily 11:30 am to 11:30 pm.

GETTING THERE

Amritsar is a 60 minute flight from Delhi and serviced by many domestic airlines. The comfortable and fast Shatabdi train leaves Delhi at 7 am, arrives at 1 pm and costs Rs. 1000. The train departs Amrtisar at 5 pm and arrives back in Delhi at about 11 pm.

GETTING AROUND

Taxis and cars are abundant on the streets.

Svaasa hotel provides good transportaion and sightseeing services around town. Dharmasala is 3.5 hours away.

For more Day Trips from Delhi, order Love Delhi Travel Guide, available online at Amazon.

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