Destination: Corsica
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BY CAR
For cool breezes and a dramatically different landscape, drive inland to the mountain village of Corte, home of the national hero and freedom fighter, Pasquale de Paoli, and site of the island’s only university. History buffs will enjoy the Musée de la Corse (Citadelle, Corte; 33-04-95-45-25-45; www.musee-corse.com), a sprawling modern exhibition space perched on a cliff in the revamped 15th-century citadel that features art and artifacts of preindustrial Mediterranean society.
BY TRAIN
Take a ride inland on Corsica’s century-old little U Trinighellu, which chugs into the lush mountains, past rivers and torrents, and crosses more than 100 stone bridges and viaducts, including the highest, the Vecchio (Bastia-Corte; 33-04-95-46-00-97), which was built by Gustave Eiffel. A great way to take in the panoramic splendor of the countryside, if you’re not in a rush. Vertigo-sufferers should abstain.
BY FOOT
Pack a picnic and drive north past Bastia and up the eastern coast of the rugged Cap Corse. This tranquil finger-shaped peninsula of tiny fishing ports, old crenellated Genoese towers, unspoiled beaches and luxuriant green hillsides and vineyards, is perhaps the least commercially developed part of Corsica and a trekker’s paradise. Begin the trail at Macinaggio, the last village at the tip of Cap Corse. Stop at the splendorous beach at Tamarone, then continue on the “customs” footpath (so-called because such roadways used to be patrolled by customs agents) that winds around the seaside cliffs and crystalline coves. A fragrant network of paths lined with myrtle, heather and juniper leads the traveler past cows and sheep grazing in the lush green meadows just behind the dunes. Maps are available at the Macinaggio Tourist Office.
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