Destination: American West

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The Ranch at Rock Creek

Patience is the key to paradise. In the case of the Rock Creek Ranch, a new resort in southwestern Montana, that proverb is literally true. It took owner James Manley twenty-three years and some 200 property visits all around the American West before he found the spot that fit his specifications—and then some. The stunning 6,600 acres that surround the ranch are pure big sky Montana, with sweeping mountains and sloping hillsides, fairy-tale-like pine forests, seemingly endless meadows and, of course, a river that runs through it all that happens to be one of the premier sporting streams in the region. Manley, an East Coast-based banker and the founder of Atlantic-Pacific Capital, fulfilled a lifelong dream by buying the property in 2006. Luckily for discerning travelers, he decided to share his passion for the West by creating a uniquely handcrafted new guest ranch, which is poised to join such iconic Western ranches as a Triple Creek and the Resort at Paws Up.

Currently, the ranch offers several types of accommodations, from plush rooms in the main lodge and sumptuous suites scattered in restored cabins throughout the property to two stunning freestanding homes, including a three- and a five-bedroom. For visitors who want to be right on the creek (which locals insist on pronouncing “crick”), Rock Creek has also envisioned a new generation of tented safari-style lodgings. Part haute log cabin, part double-canvas tent, they come with a screened-in porch, carpet-clad interiors, gas fireplaces and a small toilet out back, in case guests don’t want to take the short stroll to the luxuriously appointed bathhouses (each tent is assigned one). Interiors throughout were done with a lot of taste, style and sense of place. Interior designer Jet Zarkadas already worked with the previous owner of the ranch, and her interest in the region is visible throughout. “I wanted the interiors to tell the stories of this part of Montana,” she says, “The stories of the native Americans, of the miners, and of the wranglers and ranchers.” The color palette is lush, with deep reds and chocolates, many of the spaces are clad in wood (some of it reclaimed from old Montana and Pennsylvania barns), and decorative objects, antiques and a huge collection of regional historic photographs, sourced from dealers around the West, add unique touches.

You can tell that no expense was spared (every last decorative detail is top quality), but the overall vibe is relaxed; it’s the kind of place that makes you feel instantly at home, or rather, in the home of a friend who is thrilled to host you. This theme continues in the comfortable guest rooms, which are stocked with such thoughtful amenities as fuzzy slippers, suede-accented robes, Red Flower beauty products and the most complete emergency kit I’ve ever encountered in a hotel: razor, shaving lotion, tweezers, nail clippers, eye-make-up remover, floss, and a toothbrush.

Of course, as beautiful as the inside spaces are, Rock Creek is all about the stunning scenery outside and the people who facilitate your play within. The ranch is blessed with a hard-working cast of cowboys, wranglers, fly-fishermen and mountaineers; all the type of Renaissance men and women who only seem to exist out West. Activities director Hank Welles is an expert fly fisherman who also happens to excel at mountain biking, hunting and off-piste skiing. Bartender Tony Ardisson is an expert guide through Montana’s flora and fauna, plays the moody blues on the guitar and can do a pitch-perfect karaoke rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody. Lovely spa attendant Sarah Welles also crafts Western-inspired jewelry, on sale in the ranch’s boutique. And wrangler Buck Demers, a dead ringer for Jake Gyllenhall, also happens to be a regional Rodeo champion. They all share an unshakable passion for Montana’s wide expanses, and partaking in any activity under their guidance is some of the most fun you will have.

And fun is what owner Manley is after here. There’s a myriad of activities, varying by season, and all are included in the nightly rate. In the warm months, on-property options include hiking the fifty miles of logging trails, mountain biking (each guest is assigned a bike upon arrival), horseback-riding, sporting clays, paintball, archery and, of course, fishing, one of the main reasons that draws visitors to this part of Montana. The on-property fishing in Rock Creek is excellent but trips to other nearby rivers, like the Blackfoot, Madison and Missouri, can also be arranged (at an additional cost). Besides the five-treatment room spa, the ranch’s piece-de-resistence for indoor activities is the Saloon. The ultimate man cave, it includes a lounge and bar area (saddle bar stools, of course), as well as a theater with a fourteen-foot movie screen, ping pong, foosball and billiard tables, and a four-lane bowling alley with a teched-out lighting system (yes, disco bowling is an option).

If spending upward of $800 a night and shooting pool while sipping a Corona seems like an oxymoron, it isn’t. The Ranch at Rock Creek was envisioned by a moneyed man passionate about the West and about bonding with family and friends in an unpretentious, beautiful setting. All the details of the Ranch, from Frette linens to fine wines, are luxe, but nothing feels over-the-top. Rooms are generously sized but not huge; they’re uncluttered with a high king-sized bed, a few chaises, a table and large windows framing the views; most of the bathrooms have only a shower; there are no televisions (but rooms do have WiFi and an iPod docking station). The experience is about getting outside and trying new activities, all the while knowing that a cosseting base awaits. (It helps that the cuisine of chef Josh Drage is excellent and guests can look forward to such dishes as homemade gnocchi with beef rib eye, sea scallops with asiago risotto and honey apple tart with rosemary caramel sauce at the end of a busy day). At one point during your stay, your excursions will surely lead you to a trail that snakes up behind the River Camp and leads to a high elevation with stunning views. Along the way, you will pass a wooden sign with the trail name: Paradise.

Rooms from $800 per night per person (double occupancy), including all food, drink, activities (spa treatments are extra).

WHO SHOULD STAY:

Couple, families and groups of friends who love the American West and exploring outdoors and who enjoy a plush but authentic Western setting. The Ranch is also a fabulous place to take over as a larger group for a special occasion, anniversary or party.

ROOMS TO GET:

Where to be based during a visit depends on your preferences: some travelers will want to be based in one of the main guest rooms for their close proximity to the comfortable living room, the dining room and the spa and saloon. Couples craving privacy should book Trapper, a fantastic cabin with canvas-tented bedroom with fireplace, a kitchen, and a gorgeous bathroom, as well as a deck with a hot tub right by the creek. Another lovely suite is Bluebird, housed in the former owner’s private spa cabin. It has a large four-poster bed, bathroom with a sauna, a large wrap-around sun room and beautiful views. The Loft is a cozy suite, right under the roof of one of the trapper cabins, comes with a large bathroom with a freestanding tub, a large sliding barn door between the bed- and bathrooms and a dining room table. The owner’s own home, River House, is a gorgeous three-bedroom right on the river while the five-bedroom Bear House sits on a slope above the main lodge with views of the valley and beyond. The luxurious tented cabins of River Camp, are available for couples (with a king-sized bed) and families (a super-sized double tent with a king-sized bad and two doubles).

TIPS:

If you’re traveling with kids, take the short drive to Philipsburg, a tiny town nearby that happens to have the nation’s second-largest candy story, the Sweet Palace (109 East Broadway St.; 406-859-3353).

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