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Whimsical Santa Fe rises out of New Mexico’s endless stark desert landscape like a colorful oasis that teeters between over-the-top kitsch and expressive old soul. Many longtime visitors and, of course, locals bemoan the fact that seemingly the whole world has caught on to the charm of their little town, and it’s true that parts of Santa Fe are hopelessly overrun, and overdone. But during my recent trip to the New Mexican capital—the United States’ oldest—I was relieved to discover that underneath all the touristy commerce, Santa Fe maintains a hippie-chic New Age heart. After all, this is the far-flung desert oasis that left a deep impression on such big names on America’s cultural scene as Georgia O’Keeffe, Willa Cather, Bob Dylan and Cormac McCarthy (all of whom spent or have spent considerable time here). At the lovely Teahouse, when I took a break from gallery hopping on Canyon Road, a woman with a halo of wispy white hair asked, “Dear, what’s your sign?” and upon hearing my reply (Pisces), she nodded and said, “Yes, I got that vibe.” Artsy-looking ladies of a certain age championing astrology was precisely the Santa Fe I had missed among the onslaught of silver jewelry in the Palace of the Governors boutiques. But pockets of authentic Southwestern flair and Santa Fe charm continue to thrive; you just have to know where to find them.