More Photos (5)

Encantado is a fifteen-minute drive north of downtown, and that’s precisely its draw. Perched on a ridge, Santa Fe’s most luxurious resort is all about space: there are sweeping desert views, especially from the large pool deck; the massive rooms have minimalist-chic decor; and the property fronts on a 1.8-million acre national forest, so hiking trails begin right behind the buildings.

There are sixty-five guest rooms (called casitas) and nine one-bedroom suites, all housed in two-story buildings scattered on a hillside. Casitas on the lower floors have an outdoor patio and an outdoor fireplace, while those on the upper floor have a more expansive view and a sizable terrace. Unlike that at many properties in town, the decor here shies away from the somewhat expected Santa Fe style, embracing a more understated sensibility. It’s as if the designers who settled on the light-painted walls, dark-wood floors and sleek furniture had realized that anything more precious would clash with the natural splendor of the great outdoors. Loving details, like the soft throws and blankets, wood-burning kiva-style fireplaces and original art, add color and imbue a sense of warmth. As you’d expect, the high-tech features are flawless: heated bathrooms floors, flat-screen televisions and iPod docks. Nearly everything in the minibar (included in the room rate except for alcoholic beverages) is locally sourced, so you get a nice sense of place.

The luxury of space is striking also around the common spaces, which include an elevated pool area, a state-of-the-art fitness center and yoga studio and a super-sized outdoor fireplace off the Lounge Terrace where a nightly ritual involves s’more making and stargazing. A serious draw even for those not staying here is the destination spa. For a place like Santa Fe, which has long been renowned as a center for the healing arts and alternative medicine, the small number of high-end spas is surprising. (Until Encantado opened, visitors had to choose between Ten Thousand Waves, the famous Japanese-inspired wellness haven, which has some great therapists but a less than luxurious setting, and the spa at La Posada de Santa Fe, which has garnered mixed reviews for its treatments lately.) With its well-conceived layout, including steam rooms, soaking pools and a gorgeous circular relaxation room, the spa at Encantado is the kind of place where you want to spend serious time (therapists and treatments are top-notch).

Since it opened, a little over a year ago, Encantado has struggled a bit to draw locals and visitors based in the downtown area up to its lofty perch: it reminded me of the Amangani in Jackson Hole, blessed and cursed in equal parts with a stunning setting that’s geographically and mentally removed from the heart of the destination. Encantado’s excellent restaurant, Terra, headed by James Beard award–nominated Charles Dale, has a “4 for $44” menu during the week (a true bargain, considering that most entrées in town start at $30), and the wonderful Encantado staff try their best to offer shuttle service to interested diners and spa goers. For its own guests, the resort also offers a fleet of Mercedes that can be used free of charge for the half-day or day, facilitating day trips to such nearby sites as Bandelier Park, Ghost Ranch and Georgia O’Keeffe’s Abiquiu Studio. I for one found the restful day and night I spent here a fantastic conclusion to my Santa Fe visit. After two days of the bustle of downtown, with its droves of tourists, long lines for hot-spot restaurants and ubiquitous commerce, the time of relaxation and introspection at Encantado was a welcome change of pace.

WHO SHOULD STAY: Return visitors to Santa Fe who have “done” downtown and want a more sophisticated, luxurious hideaway, and first-timers who have spent a few nights in Santa Fe proper and want to conclude their journey with some relaxation outside town.

WHO SHOULD NOT STAY: Travelers who want to spend all their time in downtown Santa Fe, which is a fifteen-minute drive away.

ROOMS TO GET: While most rooms have a single king bed (roll-aways for kids can be arranged), there are eight casitas with two queen beds, a nice touch for friends traveling together. For the best views and ultimate privacy, book a one-bedroom suite.