Destination: Myanmar

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Trip to Myanmar 2012

Myanmar 2012 is an outrageous shape shifter.

Before I left on my trip there in March, I had read extensively about this southeast Asian country, not least because its appalling history of military dictatorship demands due diligence from travelers. But owing to how fast things have been changing, nothing I read had actually prepared me. Most everything I experienced—from the relentless street scene in Yangon to the serene temples of Bagan —was more complex, vibrant and profound than I imagined. It was the type of journey where your brain is on all the time, because everything you see invites further questions. If things continue to change as fast as they have been, it will be different to visit even six months from now, let alone years when—predictably, hopefully—the longtime U.S. and European-imposed sanctions will have been lifted, and investors will have discovered this culturally rich place.

Since the contested elections in 2010, Myanmar has been steadily moving towards democratic change. What began as a whisper of transformation has grown louder, as timid but extraordinarily hopeful signs point toward a...

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