Destination: Italy: Florence

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Il Santo Bevitore

This modern, spacious restaurant and wine bar has dark wooden tables, walls lined with wine bottles and a convivial atmosphere provided by the hip local patrons who flock here. Opened in 2002, Santo Bevitore is a good choice for lunch or a laid-back dinner. Picky eaters will love the straightforward menu of salads, panini, pasta and risotto, while wine connoisseurs will appreciate its fine Tuscan vintages. Service is on the slow side (my husband and I had to practically beg for the bill on a recent visit), but no one comes here to rush through a meal. Take your cue from the natives and linger over cheese plates or one of the tasty desserts. There are several rooms; for more privacy, reserve a table in the back. Open daily.

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La Buca dell'Orafo

Recently, a plugged-in Florentine shared one of his favorite restaurants with us. Just steps from the Ponte Vecchio, in a spot that was formerly occupied by a tourist trap, La Buca dell’Orafo (means goldsmith’s cave) attracts foreigners but is still considered a locals’ haunt. (It’s called a cave because it’s a below-ground space.) The chef prepares Italian comfort food like spaghetti with peas that Italians will swear taste exactly as their grandmother made it, but which you will never find on a restaurant menu. He also prepares some of the best steaks in the city. Many places claim to serve bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine porterhouse) but only a handful are actually allotted the certified steaks, which come from regional cows that are slaughtered at a young age to guarantee tenderness. (The owner here will proudly produce the certificates along side each dish.) Don’t be shocked if they seem cooked only on the outside; that is how they are meant to be enjoyed. It’s a simple place with white tablecloths and kitchen quality china. At lunch time you may be able to walk in, but at dinner you must have a reservation, and even days in advance, they can be hard to secure since locals have standing days. Late in the evening, the owner may plug in his iPod and invite diners to loosen up and go loungey. Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Remember: They do not accept credit cards so come with cash.

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Sant’Agostino 23

There are very few restaurants in Florence where chefs are trying to think outside the Florentine-classics box. This hip, lovely Oltrarno eatery demonstrates why more chefs should follow the lead of young Mirko Innocenti, who whips up innovative Tuscan-inspired cuisine. A recent visit included a delicious millefoglie made with crostini, zucchini and fresh mozzarella; as well as tender Ossobuco tanto. The two small dining rooms are cozy and quirky—the back room is hung with subway and bus maps from capitals around the world. Sant’Agostino fills up fast, so be sure to arrive with a reservation. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

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