Destination: France: Paris
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Gaya Rive Gauche
This edgy seafood house, on a fashionable street on the Left Bank, is the creation of top chef Pierre Gagnaire. The modern decor is a change from the restaurant’s former sea-shack look, and the menu’s been similarly revised, but if the locals were initially wary, they’ve been won over by the dishes of young chef Guillaume Delage, like his carpaccio of sea bass with sea snails and a clever Gagnaire-designed tartine (open sandwich) of tuna, poutargue (pressed tuna roe), braesola, proscuitto and fresh vegetables on brioche. Main courses range from a classic langoustine risotto to an unusual but tasty monkish tandoori with turnip and honey cream. Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Métro: Rue du Bac.
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