Destination: France: Paris
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Le Chateaubriand
To discover cutting-edge Paris bistro cooking, it’s worth the schlep to this funky and hugely popular restaurant in the Oberkampf quarter. An 1890 former grocery store is the setting for chef Inaki Aizpitarte, who made La Famille in Montmartre a smash hit. The 35-year-old Basque native has a knack for finding the freshest produce and cleanest, if unexpected, mix of flavors, like his chunky, hand-cut steak tartare garnished with a quail’s egg and a Vietnamese-style dipping sauce with whole peanuts; asparagus with a tahini foam; and unctuous tuna belly with smoked eel, a combo as odd as it is delicious. Le Chateaubriand draws a hip crowd and is very popular, so book ahead. Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday and Monday. Métro: Goncourt.
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