Tip from Loulou de la Falaise
“I love to go to the markets at the Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen. I start with breakfast in one of the neighborhood’s authentic Parisian bistros. A few of my favorites include: Café Loom (142 rue des Rosiers; 33-1-40-10-04-26) at the Marché Malassis, L’Opus Café (5 rue Jules Vallès; 33-1-40-11-46-23), Chez la Môme (17 rue Lecuyer; 33-1-40-11-45-14) and Le Marché Biron (85 rue des Rosiers; 33-1-40-11-59-69; www.marchebiron.fr). In May, there’s a wonderful brocante antiques market at the Bastille (Place de la Bastille;33-1-56-53-93-93; www.joel-garcia-organisation.fr) and when I’m there, I like to have breakfast at Restaurant Bofinger (5-7 rue de la Bastille; 33-1-42-72-87-82).”
Bird and Flower Market
Place Louis Lépine and surrounding quays
If you’re traveling with children, take them to see the featherd friends at this market, which also sells small animals. Métro: Cité.
Enfants Rouge
39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd
This market isn’t far from the Picasso Museum and has several stands selling prepared foods perfect for a quick lunch or picnic supplies. Open Tuesday–Saturday 8:30 a.m.–1 p.m. and 4 p.m.–7:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 8 p.m. and Sunday 8:30 a.m.–2 p.m. Métro: Filles-du-Calvaire or Temple.
Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen
Porte de Clignacourt, 18th
33 (0) 1-58-61-22-90
No trip to Paris would be complete without a trip to this world-famous flea market. This sprawling market, which started during the 19th century as a place for scrap dealers to sell their wares, is actually a collection of over a dozen markets broadly specializing in different goods. The two I like the most are the Marché Biron, for furniture, clocks and decorative objects, and the Marché Dauphine, which sells furniture and bric-à-brac.
TIP: See Indagare Intelligence for a great personal shopper who specializes in antiques shopping and the flea markets. He can help scout, negotiate, navigate and ship.
Be advised that many dealers do not take credit cards, so if you’re planning to do some serious shopping, bring cash. (And dealers expect good-natured haggling over their prices; consider yourself a world-class bargainer if you get them down by 20 percent, but be satisfied if they come down 10 to 15 percent. Note that the best dealers can arrange to ship your new treasure home. Open Saturday 9:00 a.m.¬–6 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.–6 p.m. and Monday 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Métro: Porte de Clignacourt.
Président Wilson
Avenue du Président Wilson (between Rue Debrousse and Place d’Iéna), 16th
At this market, don’t miss the vegetable stand of Joël Thiébault, who supplies many of the city’s top chefs with produce from his farm outside Paris. Wednesday 7 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and Saturday 7 a.m.–3 p.m. Métro: Alma-Marceau or Iéna.
Raspail
Boulevard Raspail (between Rues du Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes), 6th
This famous Left Bank market is all-organic on Sundays. Tuesday and Friday 7 a.m.–2:30 p.m., Sunday 7 a.m.–2 p.m. Métro: Rennes.
Stamp Market
Corner of Avenue de Marigny and Avenue Gabriel; 1st
One of Paris’ many specialized markets, this one is a paradise for stamp collectors. Open all day Thursday, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. Métro: Champs-Élysées–Clémenceau.