More Photos (4)

Laid out in the 17th century by André Le Nôtre, the Tuileries garden, on the right bank of the Seine, is flanked by the Place de la Concorde to the west and the Musée du Louvre to the east. It may not officially have the child-friendly reputation of the Left Bank’s Jardin du Luxembourg (blame it on Adam Gopnik, who wrote about the latter so memorably in From Paris to the Moon), but the Tuileries offer tons of activities for kids. There are pony rides, a trampoline and the annual Fête des Tuileries (usually mid-June through mid-August), a fair with lots of rides, including La Grande Roue ferris wheel.

Art lovers should not miss two museums housed in the Tuileries: the Galerie du Jeu de Paume (www.jeudepaume.org), which shows rotating exhibits of mostly modern and contemporary art, and the Musée de l’Orangerie (www.musee-orangerie.fr), where Monet’s water lily cycle, Les Nymphéas, is on display.

Enlarge Photo

I’ve found this Left Bank park surrounding the French Sénat to be the loveliest urban park anywhere. It offers a charming microcosm of the French way of life, including the premise that the natural world, including humans, is meant to be guided, disciplined and improved. The plantings change seasonally, and the park is brilliantly designed to offer a variety of activities. Sit alongside the main fountain for people-watching, send a rented wooden sailboat across the calm waters with your children or bring a book and find a quiet corner in one of the shaded areas along the park’s western edge. The Luxembourg also offers pony rides, puppet shows for children, even beekeeping courses. Open daily from dawn to dusk. Métro: Odeon or RER Luxembourg.

Enlarge Photo

When you’ve had your fill of exploring the city’s museums and monuments, hop in a taxi and head for this exquisite garden in a corner of the Bois de Boulogne. Happily, this lovely park attracts more Parisians than tourists, which means that you’ll be able to stroll the roseraie (rose gardens) with some 1,200 varieties in peace. Children love the peacocks strutting on the lawn, and the pretty Chinese-style pavilion serves lunch outside when the weather’s good, but book ahead to avoid disappointment. Open daily from dawn to dusk.