Destination: California: San Francisco

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Bar Jules

This adorable, tiny little offshoot of that magnanimous Chez Panisse spirit has a refined palette and laid-back clientele. It’s a snug 28-seater space, hugged by grass-green and ocean-blue walls and dotted with woven bistro chairs, whose fresh and flavorful menu changes daily on its chalkboard post. The chef, often seen stepping over the owner’s friendly Basset Hound that lounges nonchalantly in the kitchen, cooks according to what’s best that day and is devoted to local sources, small farms, and providers of sustainable meat and fish. A regular favorite (when available) is the ‘cochenita’ style pork, which is rubbed in a blend of peppery spices, braised in orange juice, wrapped in a banana leaf, and then marinated overnight. Expect a wait of up to 45 minutes for a table on Saturday night. But if you’re just two people, ask for table #5: it will be the one tucked snugly into the streetside corner, overlooking charming Hayes Street and with a view across the restaurant’s colorful diners, packed-in but relaxed.

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