In addition to the scarcity of American visitors, the talk of the town in Venice is that Mayor Massimo Cacciari has finally won his battle against the pigeons, or as he calls them “flying rats.” Over the past decade, many strategies have been suggested and tried, from catching them in nets at night (to the horror of animal activists) and adding birth control to their feed to fining people up to 500 euros for feeding them anywhere outside of Piazza San Marco. The city had become overrun with the disease carrying creatures (at one point it was estimated that there were 120,000 birds, almost three per resident), but generations of tourists flocked to Piazza San Marco to pose with the birds. Also, the licenses from the corn sellers brought in thousands of euros a year. However, once it became clear that the birds weren’t only a health risk, but were also destroying the façade of St. Mark’s basilica with their corrosive droppings, the mayor was finally able to ban even the lucrative corn sellers. Last week, a few unknowing tourists still scattered bread crumbs but they were greeted by a mangy and aggressive swarm whose ranks seem to be thinning by the day.
WHERE TO STAY
ON THE HORIZON: This fall Amanresorts will begin transforming a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal into a twenty-some room city hotel, and Francesca Bortolotto Possati is expanding her hotel empire with a palazzo on the Giudecca that will have two-bedroom apartment suites.
FAMILY FRIENDLY: In the heat of summer, the San Clemente Palace, on an island of its own with a pool and tennis court is an ideal choice for families.
VALUE: With a weak dollar and strong euro, it’s nice to know that there are reasonable options from apartment rentals to family-run pensiones.
NEWCOMERS: Ca’ Sagredo still offers opening rates but has now smoothed out the service kinks.
WHERE TO SHOP
Probably the most exciting news in Venice fashion in a decade is the new couture house Sete-Cento, founded by Alessandro Possati. Seek out his atelier and other of the city’s craftsmen who make exquisite products by hand such as the flamboyant shoe designer Giovanna Zanella the cult printer Gianni Basso, where Danielle Steel and Scott Turow come for stationery; legendary jeweler Attilio Codgnato and rising stars, the Attombri brothers.
Other artisinal favorites: Antica Legatoria Piazzesi, Dolceamora, Massimo Micheluzzi, Serena Vianello, Vittorio Costantini and Vizio Virtu.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Families should tour with one of our favorite guides who can bring the city’s history to life for kids and parents with tours of the secret passages of the Doge’s Palace, tales of how Venetians robbed the grave of St. Mark, scavenger hunts around the ubiquitous lion symbol and visits to craftsmen in their studios.
Stop in at the Fortuny Museum, where the permanent collection shares space until July 21 with the paper dresses of Isabelle Borchgrave, a Belgian artist.
Bike around the Lido or spend a day sailing with Mauro Stoppo on his restored fishing boat.
WHERE TO EAT
AL FRESCO: Eating at a shaded table on a lively campo or on a small lane is a summer pleasure. Favorites: Antiche Carampane, Ancora, Aqua Pazza, Art Blue Café, Bancogiro, Da Fiore, Florian, Quadri, La Rivista.
ON THE WATER: The city has lots of floating terraces and canal side seats. Favorites: Cips, Da Gianni, Harry’s Dolci, La Piscina, Lineadombra, Monaco & Grand, Naranzaria, Palazzo Bauer.
As insider Laura Aliprandi, who co-owns Venice’s Galleria 3D (www.galleria3d.it), says in her insider tips, “Don’t miss Festa del Redentore occurs on the third Saturday of July. Venetians celebrate the event with an incredible display of fireworks that light up the skies for over an hour, while decorated boats and partying people fill the Giudecca Canal.”
