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As Angélina is to Paris and Tavern on the Green is to New York, so are Florian and Quadri to Venice. Landmarks that draw groans from locals because of the tourists, but that remain iconic for a reason. Florian opened under the arcades in Piazza San Marco in 1720 under a different name but was rechristened Florian in honor of its historic owner Floriano Francesconi. It’s where the noble and fabulous of Venice came to cavort, leading to the dubbing of San Marco “the living room of Venice.” Abandoned to tourists now for decades, there is still something thrilling about sitting in the square on a beautiful day or in the ornate dining room in winter, where a glamorous history can easily be imagined. Just brace yourself before you look at your bill and consider that a price of admission has been added.

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A Venice institution that is famous for being a watering hole for legendary bon vivants, including Ernest Hemingway who drank here when in town. Unfortunately, while the interiors remain the same, the quality of the food does not justify the insane prices, especially when compared with meals at newer neighborhood places like Al Covo. Come for a Bellini—it’s where the cocktail of white peach juice and Prosecco was invented—and make a toast to the good old days, but go elsewhere for dinner. The tables with a view are on the upstairs terrace. Yes, the bar was founded by Giuseppe Cipriani, and this branch is still overseen by his son, Arrigo, but has no connection to the Hotel Cipriani on Giudecca. Arrigo’s son, Giuseppe, has exported the brand with locations in New York, London and Sardinia. The patrons of those outposts always pay homage to the original when they come to town so it’s still a magnet for people watching. You may spot Sir Elton or art world forces who cram in during Biennale. In warmer months, Harry’s Dolci on the Giudecca serves sweets and light meals at outdoor tables, and is definitely worth a visit. Closed Mondays.

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Venetians consider this the enemy café as Florian was the haunt of Italians in the 19th century and Quadri, on the opposite side of the square, was frequented by Austrian soldiers and many foreign artists. Of course, it’s mainly tourists who enter Piazza San Marco today, and Italians would be horrified of the cost of a cappuccino. However, the view of the Doge’s Palace and the basilica of San Marco is unbeatable and the restaurant was recently awarded a Michelin star. Whenever you come, don’t miss a peek at the ornate interior rooms, which have been faithfully preserved.

Raves Indagare insider Francesca Bortolotto Possati, the chic owner of the Bauer hotels: “The venerable Il Quadri restaurant was recently bought by three-Michelin-starred chef Alajmo (from the famous Calandre restaurant in Padova). It’s a hit: service, ambience and food are all excellent, as is its location, of course.”