Ai Do Draghi
Indagare insider Marie Brandolini, known for her innovative, colorful glass creations based on traditional Venetian designs, recommends Ai Do Draghi. She says it is “the most lively campo with lots of students. It’s a lot of fun.”
Destination: Italy: Venice
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Bacari
City Secrets is a series of innovative guidebooks whose contributors, from art historians and professors to novelists and architects, choose their personal “city secrets” to share. Read a Q&A with founding editor Robert Kahn. The following is a pick from City Secrets: Florence & Venice by Marcella Hazan, a chef and cookbook author.
Bacari The sole aspect of authentically Venetian life that has yet to be altered by tourism is snacking at a bacaro. A bacaro is a small, cheery, crowded food-and-wine bar where, although tables are available, habitués usually stand by the counter and consume liberal amounts of young, good wine by the glass while maintaining sobriety with the variety of succulent, freshly made tidbits known as cicheti (chee-keyh-tee), the Venetian version of tapas… The visitor endowed with gastronomic curiosity and an unbiased palate will nowhere in Italy spend a more savory and convivial hour or two than in a Venetian bacaro. Most bacari open early in the morning, close for three hours or so in the afternoon, and reopen for what is usually a short evening, some closing as early as 8:30pm. Here are a couple examples:
Osteria da Alberto (Calle larga Giacinto Gallina, Castello 5401; 39 41 523 81 53)
Alberto sold his immensely popular osteria in 1977, but Marco and Andrea, his successors, have not disappointed. Good variety of simple wines by the glass. Closed Sundays.
Antico Dolo (Ruga Rialto, San Polo 778; 39 41 522 65 46; anticodolo.it)
One of the oldest and most atmosphere-laden bacari. Stays open until 11pm or later, depending on business, and serves good hot food at table. Closed Sundays.
Centrale
This restaurant and lounge quickly became popular with locals and in-the-know visitors because it brought a cool, Philippe Starkesque aesthetic that had not yet existed in Venice. In a paint-peeling building near Piazza San Marco, the ancient interiors have been glammed up with enormous Murano glass chandeliers and black leather couches. The scene and the setting are more of a draw than the food. Request one of the tables in the alcove overlooking the canal, but don’t lean back or you may end up in the water. There’s a private dining room for small groups and music late night. Open for dinner only. Children under 12 are charged half price for their meals.
Il Danielino
Indagare insider Marie Brandolini, known for her innovative, colorful glass creations based on traditional Venetian designs, suggests Il Danielino: “On the terrace of the Danieli Hotel with breathtaking views.”
Naranzaria
A favorite of Francesca Bortolotto Possati
“Owned by Stefano Monti and Brandino Brandolini, whose family makes award-winning wines in nearby Friuli, this is the place to go for aperitivi.”
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