Destination: Italy: Venice
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Bancogiro (Osteria da Andrea)
In the restored arcades off the Rialto market, you’ll find this lively wine bar, which was opened by one of the city’s legendary foodies, Andrea Varisco. It’s a traditional wine bar with Venice’s version of tapas and out back are tables on a quiet terrace facing the Grand Canal. The kitchen offers daily specials based upon what is fresh at the market. It’s popular with local businessmen.
Editors’ note: The entrance is on one of the city’s prettiest squares, Campo San Giacomo, which is dominated by a fabulous church clock. Beside the front door, you will see a large pane of glass that allows you to look directly into the kitchen, where you can view the chefs preparing the food. If it’s a sunny day, pass through the restaurant and out on to the stone terrace that faces the Grand Canal. In winter, request a table in the rafters upstairs. Its sister outpost near San Marco is Osteria Enoteca San Marco, which also has a wonderful wine list. Closed Mondays.
Corte Sconta
Considered one of the best places to find truly excellent seafood in Venice, Corte Sconta is no longer a secret even though it is off-the-beaten path. The very simple facade may give you pause, but there’s a lovely outdoor garden, which is where to sit when the weather is fine. This lovely restaurant belongs to the Buona Accoglienza, an association dedicated to seasonal, regional cuisine (as do Antiche Carampane and Vini da Gigio). The small menu changes daily, depending on what’s fresh at the market, and entrées are all seafood-based; a specialty is squid ink spaghetti served with asparagus and cockles. Don’t miss a glass of the spumante della casa or the delicious homemade desserts. Corte Sconta is closed Sunday and Monday (the latter, the day when the Rialto fish market is shuttered as well).
Tip: Perfect location for lunch if you are visiting the Biennale, so don’t be surprised if you see art dealers or collectors from London and New York at adjoining tables.
Il Ridotto
Il Ridotto, a short stroll from Piazza San Marco and located on a scenic small campo, has just five tables and an open kitchen. The ultra-fesh Venetian seafood served here is innovative and showcases contemporary touches. The menu changes often and reservations are required, especially for dinner, due to the intimate size.
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