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Since it opened almost in June 2006, the waterside tables at Les Ottomans’ terrace restaurant have been snatched up in summer by many of Istanbul’s movers and shakers. Although the international dishes are appealing (duck confit with cauliflower puree and port wine pear, spaghetti en papillote with shrimp, scallops, mussels and calamari in tomato and white wine sauce), the glamorous atmosphere (white divans and tables so close to the river it feels as if they were floating on a superyacht) is what attracts the fashionable crowd.

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It’s a long taxi ride from Sultanahmet (about thirty to forty-five minutes), but one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Istanbul is Muzedechanga (which translates as “Changa at the museum”), a fusion kitchen at the Sakip Sabanci museum. While the original Changa (Siraselviler Cad. No. 47, Taksim; +90-212-251-7064; www.changa-istanbul.com) is more central, this stylish space—a glass box of an extension, with a sizable wood terrace decorated with mid-century Scandinavian pieces and Noguchi lamps—makes it worth the trip, as do the views of the Bosporus at night. Both Changa menus are supervised by famed London-based Kiwi chef Peter Gordon and serve delicious and fresh fusion dishes, such as grilled octopus with black olive paste and capers, zucchini flowers stuffed with cheese and basil, and lamb braised with fennel, artichokes and olives.

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Mikla is the latest offering from hotshot chef Mehmet Gürs. It’s as ambitious (and assuming) as its name—which in Norse means magnificent (Gürs was born in Finland, grew up in Sweden and is part Turkish). Despite the strong attitude, the award-winning Mikla, in a glass-walled, U-shaped space on the top two floors of the Marmara Pera hotel, delivers in terms of design, cuisine and vista—the view over the Golden Horn is breathtaking. Well-heeled guests enjoy sautéed scallops in lemon foam with vegetable risotto, lamb and mocha soufflé. Afterward, you can have a cup of coffee or an after-dinner drink outside on the white terrace on the top floor.

Of the many restaurants of the Çiragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, Tugra is considered the best. The menu is classic Turkish-Ottoman cuisine, is considered among the finest in the city. Even if you’re not staying here, book a table (with a view of the river) for a special evening out.