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If you are in Istanbul on a sun-filled Sunday, follow the Bosporus (and the locals) north to the chic neighborhood of Ortaköy for brunch; try the House Café Ortaköy (www.thehousecafe.com.tr), and then wander its lively weekend crafts market (lots of handmade beaded jewelry and crocheted tops). Afterward, take a cab or ferry to the quaint fishing village of Arnavutköy to walk off brunch. Follow the Bosporus to the Rumelihisari fortress, built by Sultan Mehmed II in 1451, before he conquered Constantinople. If you’re still up for it (and it’s no later than 3 p.m.), hop in a cab and head to the Sakip Sabanci Museum (Istiniye Cad. No. 22; www.muze.sabanciuniv.edu open until 6 p.m. on Sunday), a collection of paintings, ceramics and calligraphy in a stunning villa that was the family home of one of the country’s wealthiest businessmen. When you start feeling peckish, stop at the wonderful fusion restaurant Müzedechanga (Sakip Sabanci Cad. 22, Emirgan; www.changa-istanbul.com), located in the museum’s modern glass box of an extension, and refuel with some mezes.

If you have a day to spare (and you’ve had your fill of the city’s sights), take one of the ferries leaving from Eminönü, Kabata or Bostanci to one of the four Princes’ islands in the Sea of Marmara. For centuries the islands were known as the place where those who fell from favor were exiled; today, with their old wooden villas and car-free streets (you get around by horse and carriage, donkey or bicycle), you can experience what Istanbul must have felt like in the 19th century. My favorite island is Büyükada (which means the “big island”) a ninety-minute ferry ride from the city. In the summer, it’s a popular resort destination for both locals and tourists. You can ride a donkey up a hill to the St. George’s Monastery, where you’ll enjoy fantastic views and the chance for a delicious meal. (If you happen to be there on April 23, join the local crowds making their annual pilgrimage on the saint’s feast day). Alternatively, explore the center, Saat Meydani, and eat at the recently opened designer café Gr.île, at the Büyükada Princess Hotel (Iskele Cad. 2; www.buyukadaprincess.com).