Destination: Italy: Rome

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Margutta 54

If this new boutique property can be called a “bed and breakfast,” then I am a convert. Centrally located near bustling and chic Via Condotti, it’s a little haven set in a private courtyard off Via Margutta. Lined with old ivy-covered stone buildings, the cobblestone cul-de-sac was once an artists’ colony where Cocteau, Fellini and Stravinsky found inspiration. With just four beautifully designed suites, Margutta 54 is the brainchild of Alberto Moncada whose noble connections include a cardinal (a family baldachin to receive the Pope attests to this) and whose family has long served as patrons of artists, from Caravaggio to Picasso. Moncada’s urbane, well-mannered upbringing is not only evident in his every gesture, but in the modern yet classic design of the rooms themselves—both in Margutta 54 and his other property, Via Mario de Fiori 37 (a third, Babuino 181, is slated to open early 2010 and will be the swankest and largest of the triplet).

I stayed in Suite Number 4, which came with two dressing rooms, a big limestone and marble bathroom, with a deep...

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