Destination: Italy: Capri
If you want to escape the tourist crowds that dine in town at the easily reachable restaurants, head to Da Tonino, a local favorite that’s off the beaten path enough to guarantee that you’ll hear mostly Italian spoken in the dining room. It’s a fifteen-minute walk on the steep streets leading from the piazzetta, but the homemade pastas and fresh, no-frills seafood dishes, as well as a surprisingly complex wine list, are worth the climb. Da Tonino is also a good option for lunch if you’re en route to see the Villa Jovis or Arco Naturale. Closed Monday.
Finding an exceptional, low-key trattoria in Anacapri is trickier than in Capri, where places like Da Gemma, Aurora and Da Tonino keep visitors and locals well fed. Several people, including Bartolo Giusto of Tour Italy, recommended Cucciolo: “The restaurant is not easy to find, but the cuisine is freshly prepared and delicious.” There’s a free shuttle from Anacapri’s central Piazza Vittoria and reservations are essential.
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