More Photos (2)

Buenos Aires has long been famous for its fine leather goods and Malbec wines, but it’s also where you can pick up the kind of edgy, artistic and/or interestingly detailed clothes and accessories that rouse a “where did you get that?” reaction from your friends at home. You’ll also discover a mix of retro home-accessories boutiques and stores and galleries stocked with 18th- and 19th-century antiques. The best shopping is concentrated in three main areas: Recoleta, for the same European labels (Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, Nina Ricci and more) available back home, plus top South American brands and home furnishings; Microcentro, for trendy retailers such as Zara, tiny custom leather shops and electronics on calle Florida, as well as the mix of stores at Galerias Pacifico megamall; and Palermo Viejo, where every boutique looks worth walking into and is usually staffed by friendly shopgirls with a distinctly Argentine boho-sexy sense of style. In Palermo, grab one of the helpful, accurate shopping maps available at every store. Shopaholics will find BA’s exchange rate and the tax-free shopping opportunities intoxicating. Some of us never learn: on three separate trips to BA, I’ve miscalculated suitcase space and had to purchase an extra piece of luggage to take everything home.

To cash in on the tax-free program, spend at least 70 pesos ($22) on nationally manufactured products at affiliated retailers (look for the blue-and-white TAX-FREE SHOPPING logo on the window or at the register), and ask for your receipt and the tax-free papers. At the airport you’ll need to get tax-free stamps by showing customs agents your receipts, the papers and at least one item from every store from which you’re claiming a refund. I usually wear pieces from each location on the flight (flipping out the labels of whatever skirt and sweater I have on to show the agent), and keep the rest in my handbag or carry-on. About a month later, you’ll see a post on your credit-card statement returning your 15 percent. Despite the exchange rate, don’t expect to save much on top-label European luxury goods; however, this being Argentina, a handful of salespeople will offer you a 10 to 15 percent “cash discount” as you’re about to walk out the door—even at Fendi!