Destination: Iles d’Hyères

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As a day on Porquerolles comes to a close, when a few locals finish their game of pétanque in the tiny village square and the day-trippers are making their exodus toward the last ferry, I always feel fortunate to be part of the relatively happy few that get to watch the pink sky fade into starlight as the island’s aperitif ritual begins: residents, yachtsmen and overnight guests begin to emerge, ambling to the cafés, as the thrumming cicadas fall silent. Port-Cros, meanwhile, has a long history of playing host to a number of wayfaring literati, including D. H. Lawrence, André Gide, Paul Valéry and André Malraux who came here in the 1920s and ’30s. Today it’s an ideal haven for honeymooners, backpackers, artists and, of course, dreamers. Both islands draw families, couples, active types, wine lovers and aquanauts. Clubbers, shopaholics and smokers (smoking is banned except in town) will not be happy here.

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