At a Glance
Hidden in the forest of Arashiyama and reached via a riverboat ride, Hoshinoya Kyoto is a tucked-away, ryokan-style property that is both traditional and very comfortable for Western travelers.
Indagare Loves
- The spectacular in-room breakfasts; the must-order Japanese breakfast is a comforting hot pot with tofu and veggies and lots of savory side dishes
- The warm, accommodating and not overly formal service
- Post-dinner whiskey and chocolate in the Kura library and salon
Review
The experience of staying at Hoshinoya begins with a rarefied arrival via the Oigawa River, which, depending on the season, might be framed in flaming red and gold leaves or draped with cherry blossoms. The Japanese-style buildings that comprise the 25-room resort and its impeccable gardens spill down the hillside, hidden from view until you're standing in their midst.
Hoshinoya is a flagship property of Hoshino Resorts, a 100-year-old consortium of Japanese hotels whose aim is to endow the traditional ryokan (country inn) experience with Western-friendly features and five-star amenities. Think a Japanese Relais & Chateaux, complete with a pastoral setting and emphasis on cuisine.
The accommodations, many of which feel like small cottages, are outfitted with sliding shoji screen doors, low tatami-style sofas and heated oak floors (guests must remove their shoes at the door). Everything from the woodblock-printed wallpaper to the lacquerware in the restaurant is handmade by Kyoto craftspeople. Various panels and drawers conceal a multitude of amenities: soft pajamas, various soaking herbs for the tub and traditional card games.
There are no televisions and no spa (and, not surprisingly, children under age 13 are not allowed). Instead, there's the river view and the chance of spotting deer, monkeys and foxes; a morning stretching session led in a patch of sunlight; sitting in the gardens with a cup of tea; and the option of participating in a traditional tea or incense ceremony.
Meals are the main event: dinner in the Michelin-starred restaurant is kaiskei style, immaculately presented, stretched over 15 or so courses and fully seasonal. It's quiet, reverential, and while not something one would opt for every night, a quintessential Kyoto experience.
Who Should Stay
For a first-time Kyoto visitor, staying just at the Hoshinoya wouldn't be wise as it is too far from the city center, but combining it with a property in central Kyoto is a great idea. Its slow pace and seclusion make it perfect for those seeking a tranquil home base, and those who want a modernized ryokan experience.
Written by Becca Bull