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30 Galerie Feydeau, 75002 Paris, France
33 (1) 75-43-63-10
Tucked away in one of Paris’s most picturesque passages (small, 18th-century, glass-covered shopping alleys), Caffe Stern manages to mix an atmosphere of vintage and hipster. Its exterior bears the original façade of the stationer that was founded here in 1834 and who catered to the Elysées Palace and elite tastemakers from around the world. But in 2014 new owners took over the space, and today, its windows feature a stuffed lynx and wolf wearing jewels. One might easily pass by without even realizing that a restaurant lies within, which may lend to its private club atmosphere. This insider favorite, though, has serious cuisine and design credentials behind it: the Alajmo brothers (of Le Calandre in Padua and Quadri in Venice) and Philippe Starck. In the warren of little rooms are quirky touches like attic-worthy tables and chairs; shelves with well-worn books; and an old phone closet containing a stuffed rabbit that evokes the Mad Hatter. And yet the food is seriously sophisticated. This is an Italian bistro for the 21st century with delicious contemporary cuisine that is tucked into a historic environment.
Written by Melissa Biggs Bradley