From Frederique Raeymaekers
“I promised that I would let you know what I thought of the situation in Myanmar. It is very sad for the country that the overly sensationalized press has kept tourists away. Hotels and restaurants were empty, and there were maximum three rooms occupied in each of the hotels where we stayed. The people came to thank us for having come to visit in spite of the press. Thousands of people in the service industry have had to be laid off. In Bagan, the caleche drivers begged us to hire them even for an hour so they could feed their horses. But nobody complained or whined. The Burmese are wonderful people, proud and detached. They just go on and share what they have and believe in Buddha’s generosity! In a very selfish way we were very lucky to have Burma to ourselves, a 19th century experience. As Norman Lewis so astutely remarks “Cultures are often protected by insurgency, pestilence and bad government.”
Fortunately for the people, the land is rich, and there is no famine. Rice, vegetables, fruits and fish are plentiful and the markets are as wonderful as ever. I spoke with different people who of course blame the government for horrible corruption, intimidation, political oppression and terrible prison conditions. On the other hand most agree that Burma is an impossible country to rule with fighting tribes, some who remained loyal to the British and some who temporarily turned to the Japanese during WWII. This divide plus religious and ethnic differences seems unbridgeable. Most people are admirers of Aung San Suu Kyi, but few agree that the tourist boycott she advocates is good for the people and many think that she is out of touch.”
HOTELS AND TIPS:
We stayed in wonderful hotels with warm friendly service.
In Yangon: The Governor’s Residence: an old mansion with, pavilions, a great garden and delicious food. Ask for an upstairs room. (35 Taw Win Road, Dagon Township; (95 1) 229-860; www.governorsresidence.com)
In Bagan: The Tharabar Gate: traditional-style bungalows with imitation antique furniture; very comfortable; lush garden. Food forgettable. (Old Bagan, Nyaung Oo Township; (95 61) 600-3742; www.tharabargate.com)
Better alternative: Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel: previously government run but now a Japanese property. Beautiful views of the river and delicious food. (Bagan Archeological Zone, Old Bagan, Mandalay Division; (95 61) 600-48; www.bagan-thiripyitsaya-sakura-hotel.com)
Mount Popa, Bagan: Popa Mountain Resort: beautiful wooden bungalows with fabulous views of Mount Popa. Food forgetable. (Mt. Popa, Kyauk Padaung Township, Mandalay Division)
We traveled by car from Mount Popa to Lake Inle—a distance of over 350 kms. The trip took over ten hours; the roads were gravel or very bad, but it was oh so worth it.
Lake Inle: Inle Princess Resort: fabulously romantic pavilions with private terraces; right on the lake; bathrooms with outside showers; a very good spa with Ayurvedic and other massages; food OK. (Magyizin Village; (95 81) 290-55; www.inleprincessresort.com)
In Mandalay: The city is unattractive, but it’s well-worth a stop in order to visit the surrounding Royal Cities: Inwa, Amarapura and Sagaing (all three were at some time the capital of Burma). Sagaing, with its 5,000 stupas and 6,000 monks, is especially worth a longer stay. There is only one motel—the Chinese owned “Happy Hotel”—and though it lacks any charm, it’s very clean and the food is delicious. If you decide to stay a day or two, you should secure an educated guide, maybe from one of the monasteries (I have to investigate that for my next trip).
Read more suggestions on Burma on the Ask Advice Boards
