From D. Harris, CT

“Celebrating my wife’s birthday, we went to Cape Town for a week, then up to Kruger National Park and Lion Sands, in the Sabi Sand Reserve, hoping to see leopards. While in South Africa, we took the Rovos Rail from Cape Town to Pretoria. Everything about the experience was wonderful, starting with our arrival, where we were served Champagne in our private sitting room. The other passengers—about fifty of us altogether—were mostly from the United States, Denmark and South America. The Victorian-era train cars have been completely redone and have beautiful wood paneling, very clubby and warm, and comfortable furniture. Everything is impeccably maintained. We were in one of the three Royal Suites; I particularly appreciated that it had an en-suite shower with scalding hot water. (When I took a trip on the Orient Express, which I didn’t like nearly as much, you had to walk down a corridor to get to the shower. Orient Express also charged for drinks, while on Rovos Rail, everything is included.) The Rovos Rail travels very slowly, with a top speed of 60 km, which allows you to really relish the landscape going by. You pass through the plains of the Great Karoo and through gorgeous canyons—so much different scenery. The train stops for a few hours each night for people who don’t like the rocking and to prolong the journey. We found both the service and the food to be superb. The three-course dinners are served in the dining car at tables of two and four. I especially enjoyed the duck. For the last part of the journey, the train is pulled by a steam locomotive. Of course I had to go up and see the controls. The owner, Rohan Voss, once said, “I may not have as much money as before, but I have one hell of a train set!”

EDITOR’S NOTE:

Once a week, the Rovos Rail makes the 1,600 km journey between Cape Town and Pretoria, passing through the Great Karoo and the Highveld. Stops are made at Matjiesfontein and Kimberley. The train has thirty-six suites. Rates from R19,490 (about $2,500). (27 21) 421-4020; fax (27 21) 421-4022; www.rovos.co.za

For information on traveling to Southern Africa or to book, contact our advisory department by calling 212-988-2611 or by sending an inquiry

Read our insider report on Cape Town

Read more about Singita Grumeti

Read about Saving Lions in Crisis

Read a member postcard on Ten Days in South Africa

Explore African destinations

Read about Riding the Rovos Rail

Read about Kenya-based designer Anna Trzebinski

Read about a special elephant sanctuary in Kenya