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The six-million-acre Adirondack Park may be the unspoiled gem of the Northeast, but it has long suffered from a dearth of high-end hotels. For many years, there were really only two top-notch options: the Point, on the shores of Upper Saranac Lake, and the Lake Placid Lodge, on Lake Placid. Both are marvelous properties, but neither accept children under 12. So when we heard that the Sagamore Resort, a family-friendly grande dame in the southern Adirondacks, had a new owner and was undergoing a $20 million renovation, I had to go take a look.

The trump card of the Sagamore is its stunning setting on an island in Lake George, a 32-mile-long lake. The 19th-century main building faces the water in a V-shape, with a stepped walkway that leads down through a series of landscaped mini-terraces to the shore. Sitting on the dock, you have a 270-degree view of the vast and peaceful lake, surrounded by mountains and pine forests, with a few scattered houses in the distance: pure Adirondack bliss.

I visited the hotel a few years ago and, while I appreciated the location (it’s easier to get to than Lake Placid), the rooms were badly in need of a refurbishment and the resort had begun to sprawl a bit. So I was curious to see what had changed and decided to spend a June weekend there with my six-year-old son.

Built in 1883, the hotel has lovely bones, but also certain limitations, such as small windows in the rooms on the upper floors. As part of the renovation, the resort redid its signature restaurant (quite pretty), updated the spa (great) and added 36 new guest rooms. The best ones, hands down, are on the first floor in the main building, specifically numbers 150-159. Each has a wall of paned windows looking out over the gardens, pool and lake—a gorgeous sight, especially with the sunlight glinting off the water in the morning. Amenities include flat-screen tvs and WiFi. This July, the resort will unveil a new 3,500-square-foot infinity pool, and more new suites are in the works.

My son and I stayed in one of the Lodge suites, which are separate from the main building. While the décor was a bit tired (they have not been redone), I did appreciate the spacious layout, which included a living/dining room, a kitchenette and a large bathroom with a tub and separate shower. There were numerous other families at the resort with young kids and the staff in the dining rooms was very friendly and accommodating to the children. My son enjoyed the structured kids Teepee Club and met some new friends at the jungle gym.

The lodge boasts an attractive spa (with Jurlique products), an indoor pool, a well-equipped fitness center (with nice views) and five outdoor tennis courts. Nearby is an 18-hole golf course designed by Donald Ross and the Club Grill steakhouse. There are two restaurants on site: La Bella Vita (the main dining room, which specializes in Italian cuisine) and Mr. Brown’s Pub, a more casual option, with rustic décor. (Both have kid menus.) In high season, there is also the Pavilion, an alfresco restaurant right on the lake. Overall, we found the food good, if not especially memorable. What was memorable, however, was our time on the lake: taking a boat ride, lounging on the dock, or simply running around in the early morning, when it felt like we had the place to ourselves. A couple fishing, a few motorboats parting the silvery water in the distance, and my six-year-old son racing from dock to dock to point out a family of ducks or just throw some pebbles in the water and watch the ripples. Rooms from $339.

Rooms to Get: Rooms vary quite widely, so it is important to choose carefully. The top options are definitely the brand new rooms 150-159, on the first floor in the main building (which is referred to as “the Hotel”). Separate from the Hotel are the “Lodge” rooms, which are located in a series of condo-like buildings. While the Lodge rooms are a good value, they have not been updated and are a step down in quality.

What to Do: Maximize your lake time. Get up early, when the lake is smooth and silent, and sit on the dock. Take a motorboat out and explore. Read on the Adirondack chairs.

Who It’s Right For: Families and couples looking for a full-service, kid-friendly, not-too-expensive resort with lots of activities.

Who It’s Wrong For: Those looking for nightlife (there is none) or an intimate setting where every detail is perfect. The service, food and amenities at the Sagamore are not on the same level as the Lake Placid Lodge or the Point, and people in search of five-star luxury should stick with those properties. (They are, of course, considerably more expensive.)

Getting There: The Sagamore is about four hours by car from New York or Boston. The island is reached by a bridge.