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A Colombia Itinerary
You asked: My husband and I are interested in learning more about Colombia. If we have a week to travel, where should we go and how should we organize it? – R.N.
The travel world is buzzing about Colombia’s comeback. From the modern capital of Bogota to the beauty of historic Cartagena and the pristine Caribbean coast, the country’s appeal continues to grow as its rocky past fades. Thanks to its proximity to the US (Cartagena is a two-and-a-half-hour flight from Miami), it also makes an easy destination for a week-long escape. As in many developing countries, we recommend using an experienced ground operator such as Cox & Kings, one of the few luxury travel companies that organize private tours in Colombia.
They recommend starting the trip with two days in Bogota, where you will explore the colonial area of La Candelria and see the historic plazas and palaces. A highlight is a trip to Monteserrate Hill and its church, the city’s main symbol and a destination for thousands of pilgrims since its construction in 1640. From Bogota, fly into the Tayrona National Park, situated in the north of the country between the Sierra Nevada mountains and the Caribbean Sea. Formerly a hotbed for drug activity, this pristine jungle now hosts tourists in the funky Ecohab resort, a collection of huts that overlook the coast. Tour the rain forest with a guide and visit archaeological sites left by ancient tribes that populated the area, or just relax on the palm-lined beaches. Cartagena, which many consider Colombia’s jewel, will be your final destination. Founded as a trading port in 1533, the cosmopolitan city is filled with spectacular colonial architecture, chic shopping and fine dining. Explore the city’s historic center and the San Felipe Fort, built in the 16th century to protect the city from pirates, but leave plenty of time to soak up the tropical sun by the pool or in stylish cafes. Rates, which include accommodations at Casa Medina in Bogota and the Sofitel Santa Clara in Cartagena, start at $2,200 per person for land arrangements.
Travelers may want to check warnings from the US State Department (travel.state.gov) as well as from the governments of Canada (www.voyage.gc.ca) and Great Britain (www.fco.gov.uk).
Also read insider advice on Cartagena from Marcella Echavarria (founder of Surevolution ) and tips from designer Moises Esquenazi.
Insider Advice on Patagonia
As a former Butterfield & Robinson guide, Muriel Truter has visited over fifty countries and lived in England, Israel, Canada and Zimbabwe, where she was raised. Using her lifetime of travel experience, Truter recently launched her own bespoke travel company, Askari Travel (www.askaritravel.com), which guides discerning clients through Africa, South America and Asia. Here she shares some of her suggestions on how to best enjoy Patagonia.
What is an ideal itinerary for visiting Patagonia?
A combination of three nights at Las Balsas (54-2944-494308; www.lasbalsas.com) in the Lake District of Argentina followed by three nights at Helsingfors (54-11-4315-1222; www.helsingfors.com.ar) in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, north west of El Calafate. End with four nights at the Explora Hotel Salto Chico in Torres del Paine, Chile. This gives you the best of the massive landscapes, glaciers, lakes and awe-inspiring peaks that straddle the southern Andes of Argentina and Chile. This offers a gentle introduction to the region’s beauty by way of the lakes and forests around Las Balsas (and their fabulous dining room). It is a nice contrast with the peace and simplicity of a small working estancia at Helsingfors and the grand finale of the massive wilderness and towering peaks around the Explora.
Do you have a favorite hotel?
The architecture and view from every window at the Explora Hotel Salto Chico seems to purposely reinforce the remote majesty and vastness of the landscape. The hikes and rides are limitless and geared to your mood and energy level by a team of guides who know the terrain like the back of their hands.
How would you design a perfect day in Patagonia?
Take the full day trek to Laguna Azul from Helsingfors, with a splendid picnic lunch overlooking the lake and the glacier; you can do it on foot or on horseback. Afterwards, gather around the roaring fire in the living room of the lodge for a cognac – weary, happy and ready for a great dinner.
What is your favorite Patagonian food?
Chimichurri – the ever-present spicy Argentine steak sauce found on every table.
Where have you had the best meal?
The venison with blackcurrent at Las Balsas [a Relais & Chateaux property] – everything they do in the kitchen is magical. And they have a great wine cellar.
Patagonia isn’t known for its shopping, but is there anything a visitor should buy?
Intricately carved and silver in-laid mate bowls – you will probably never use them back home but they will remind of the ritual perhaps shared with a gaucho. [Editor’s note: Mate is a typical Argentine beverage, similar to tea, is made from brewing dried herbs.]
What should a traveler know before they go?
The weather is very unpredictable. Dress accordingly to enjoy the great outdoors. And don’t rely on being able to wear contact lenses. The wind makes them uncomfortable, so bring an excellent pair of wrap-around sunglasses. Also, the distances between regions and places make it such that there are some long road transfers that cannot be avoided – but the views whilst driving are magnificent.
Botswana Walking Safari
Known for its stunning scenery and endless miles of private nature reserves (as well as its stable government and economy), Botswana offers, in the words of our correspondent, “one of the most authentic and mind-blowing wildlife experiences on the planet.” This November/December five spots are available on a walking safari organized by Epic Private Journeys, a company that has exclusive rights to walking tours in Botswana’s northwest. The trip is super-intense. Participants—and there are only six all together—will trek 130 kilometers (approximately 81 miles), traversing the stretch of land connecting Botswana’s two main wetlands: the Okavango Delta and the Linyanti. Because most locals in Botswana work in tourism rather than agriculture, the country is teeming with wildlife (particularly elephants), and encounters with the Big Five should be common. Accommodations throughout the walk are in Epic’s own private tents—all of which have bathrooms—though the first and last two nights are spent relaxing at luxurious safari camps (the remote Duba Plains in the Okavango Delta and Duma Tau Camp in Linyati). Epic will provide training programs on how to prepare physically and Brad Horn, the company’s managing director and the former managing director of Abercrombie & Kent, will be the main, on-ground guide. According to Horn, who has spent six years working in the bush, “there’s no walk in Africa that comes close to this for wilderness, game density, adrenaline, and endurance.” Trip costs $13,008 per person; contact Indagare for more information or to book.
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