Passion Points: Style

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Stylish City: Istanbul
Denise Spencer’s introduction to Istanbul was dramatic: traveling with her then-boyfriend (now-husband) who was visiting his Turkish family, she was taken straight from the airport to the city’s sprawling Grand Bazaar. “That set the theme for my long love affair with the country and its culture,” says Spencer who now splits her time between New York and Istanbul. It also may have subconsciously inspired the designer’s decision to launch Ichiche (www.ichiche.com), a company that carries beautifully crafted jewelry and accessories from Turkey. Many of the collections’ pieces evoke the meaning of ichiche (which translates to “intertwined”), by infusing traditional motifs and materials with an undeniably modern and wearable quality. The newest addition to the collection are stylish wraps made from traditional fabrics with intricate embroidery. Spencer spoke to Indagare about her creative process, as well as shared her favorite places in Istanbul and beyond.
What are some of your favorite pieces in your current collection?
Right now, I love the kimono wraps created from vintage suzani embroideries. Each piece is one of kind and has its own special beauty. I adore wearing them with tights or skinny jeans and boots in the cold weather. My husband and I recently traveled to St. Barth’s for a getaway, and I wore them with little sandals. I’m also a fan of really long chain pieces from the jewelry collection that can either be worn as a belt or wrapped a few times and worn as a dramatically long necklace. The chains evoke a luxuriously opulent, fantasy-like feel. It’s similar to a modern day version of adornments worn during the Ottoman Empire.
What are some of your favorite neighborhoods in Istanbul?
We have a home on the hillside in Bebek, where we live when in Istanbul. I love Bebek because it is very pretty overlooking the Bosphorous. There is a little town center with a lot of rather hip cafes and bars and some good shops. It really feels like a neighborhood in the midst of such a big city. People come from all over the city to hang out there so it’s great for people-watching. I’m also intrigued and starting to explore the area of Galata around the Galata Tower. This neighborhood is growing and changing very fast as nice cafés open, and up-and-coming designers set up boutiques there. Naturally I love Sultanahmet, the historic old city where the Bazaar is located.
What are some of your favorite restaurants in Istanbul?
I will always love Park Şamdan when I want to have a nice dinner. The classic atmosphere is elegant without being stuffy and the service and food are always great. Afterward, if I’m feeling like music, dancing and having fun, we’ll head to Moreish in Tepebaşı near Beyoğlu. It’s small and unassuming before 11p.m. but it turns into one of the best places to dance on Friday and Saturday nights. The DJs are great and play a mix of everything from American rock, ‘80s music, to Turkish pop, and everyone has a great time.
My other favorite places are luckily in Bebek so I can go often. Lucca is always a scene and actually has really good food and drinks. On a weekend night it feels like all of Istanbul stops in at some point for a drink at least. Mangerie is more-low key but still gets a crowd especially at lunch or on the weekends. I had some friends come to visit over the holidays and they kept requesting to go to Mangerie over and over again because the food, people watching and view are just a perfect combination. And for something really authentic and local we go to Bebek Balikçısı (Cevdet Paşa Cad. No: 26/A Bebek) for a traditional meal of meze (Turkish tapas) and fish.
You are a foodie. What are some dishes not to miss when in Istanbul?
My favorite dish is a breakfast or brunch dish called menemen, which is sort of a Turkish version of scrambled eggs but different and far more interesting. The eggs are cooked with a lot of butter, tomatoes, peppers and spices; it’s amazing! One of my favorite cafes, Mangerie, makes it all day so I’ll even order it for a late lunch sometimes.
Going out to a traditional fish restaurant to have a meal of all of the different types of meze (Turkish tapas) is a must. Servers bring a tray of the various meze available, and you pick out what you like. First the cold dishes followed by the hot, and then if you have any room left, you order the main course of fish that is fresh or in season that day. Traditionally one would drink Rakı with the meal (its like Greek Ouzo but less sweet), but I’ve never acquired a taste for it; I have wine but one should definitely give it a try, since it’s part of the experience.
Finally for dessert: I’m not a big sweet eater but irmik helvası is really good and something to definitely try. It’s made of semolina (what we eat as cream of wheat here in the States) cooked in butter and spices with pine nuts and then packed over ice cream, sort of how the meringue in a Baked Alaska is. While not as common as other desserts, one can find it on the menu at Bebek Balikçısı and at the kebap houses Köşe Başı and Tike Kebap.
What are some of your favorite boutiques, markets, shopping resources?
Midnight Express has a nice selection of clothing from contemporary local designers alongside select things from foreign brands. They have a boutique in Bebek (Küçük Bebek Cad. No: 7/A Bebek) as well as Nisantasi (Kadırgalar Cad. Açık Hava Apt. No:8/3). In Bebek they also have a separate jewelry boutique (Cevdet Paşa Cad. Gemekcik Sokak Bebek Palas Apt. No. 1) that has the most beautiful pieces from designers both local and international.
Laundromat (Galip Dede Cad. 93/B, Kuledibi) in Galata, not far from the base of the Galata Tower, is a fairly new boutique with a revolving selection of local designers. The atmosphere is beautiful and unique, and it’s fun to see all of the creativity and design percolating in Istanbul. The up-and-coming leather designer, Simay Bulbul just opened her first boutique, also in the Galata area (Şahkulu Bostan Sokak No: 22A, Galata), and I think she is one to watch.
On a foodie note, definitely visit the Malatya Pazarı inside the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı No: 40-44-44/1 Eminönü) for all of the best dried fruits, nuts, and Turkish Delight (locally called “lokum”). They also sell something they call “kayısı döner” (apricot döner) that I’m crazy about. Typically döner is meat packed onto a turning spit, roasted, and then sliced off to eat. This apricot version is dried apricot and spices packed together with walnuts and then sliced. It’s like the best fruit roll-up you’ll ever have and without that artificial quality found in the grocery stores here in the States.
Finally, I adore the Grand Bazaar and obviously it is a must. When people think of Turkey and shopping, one of the first things that probably comes to mind are carpets and I couldn’t recommend anyone more highly than the shop Adnan & Hasan (Halıcılar Cad. No: 89, 90 & 92, Grand Bazaar). They are the best. I can’t say enough about the pieces they sell, their knowledge about each piece, their kind and gentle manner, and their fair prices. For an ever-changing selection of funky, unique, costume jewelry go visit Hayrullah in his shop Arts 15 (Kalaflar Cad. No: 15, Grand Bazaar).
What has changed the most about Istanbul since you first started going?
Starbucks! That’s just an example. When I first visited and then lived in Turkey, there wasn’t nearly the abundance of American and European brands and businesses existing today. In some areas, specifically shopping malls, and some streets you could easily be anywhere in the world. While in some ways this has made life in Istanbul more convenient, I think it’s an unfortunate change that is taking away from the local flavor.
Have you traveled elsewhere in Turkey and what are some of your favorite discoveries?
The South of Turkey is absolutely gorgeous and so wonderful during the warm weather months. I’ve been going to Alacatı, near Cesme, south of Izmir since I first started spending time in Istanbul. My husband is a dedicated windsurfer and Alacatı is one of the best places in the world. For many years there was nothing at all, just a dirt road where we’d turn off and park and walk a few steps to the water. Now the area has windsurfing schools and cafés and shops have opened up, and everyone goes to hang out there whether they windsurf or not. While the original rustic quality is gone, the more modern conveniences have made spending the day easier and it’s still a fun place to go.
The town of Alacatı has also changed dramatically. For many years, only the locals inhabited the actual village and visitors stayed in the surrounding communities and wouldn’t really go into the village other than to see the old stone architecture. But now the buildings and houses have been restored and cafes, restaurants, boutiques and hotels have moved in and it gets so absolutely packed on summer weekends that one can barely navigate the streets. It is quaint and interesting when it’s not too busy but can be overwhelming, and I do miss the quiet times of the old days there. It is still an amazing place to visit, and we go every summer.
Farther south on the Bodrum Peninsula is the town of Türkbükü, another little resort settlement nestled on a bay. The beautiful resort of Maca Kızı is there and it’s a great place to spend a luxurious long weekend just lounging in the sun, swimming and eating beautiful food at the restaurant. This is the place where my husband and I had our wedding, and it will always hold a special place for us.
Why did you call your company Ichiche?
The word means “intertwined” in Turkish, which perfectly suits both my big picture beliefs about the world, and my approach to my creative expression and business.
Read Denise’s three tips on shopping the Grand Bazaar
Save The Garment Center Tour
On March 16, Friends of Fashion will launch its Save the Garment Center Tour with Indagare. Kathleen Beckett, founder of Friends of Fashion, will guide a small group of Indagare members behind-the-scenes to see the factories and meet the people making the clothes we all love to wear. You’ll see designs by Oscar de la Renta, Nicole Miller, and Calvin Klein come to life at one of the last remaining factories for decorative stitching (there used to be 400). You’ll see fabric flowers being made by hand to adorn Ralph Lauren’s dresses. And you’ll visit a workroom with its rows of sewers turning out pieces from Anna Sui’s and Nanette Lepore’s collection. The tour ends at Nanette Lepore’s headquarters, where Lepore will explain why she produces in New York City. The designer will also host an extraordinary, first-ever private trunk show for the group of her Fall 2010 collection, straight off the runway (for placing orders). She’ll also have her spring 2010 line for shopping. The group will celebrate the great outfits with a glass of Champagne. And, as at all Friends of Fashion events, 10% of every purchase goes to helping the fashion industry.
When: Tuesday, March 16, 2010
What time: 2–5 p.m.
How: Tour spots will be awarded on a first-come, first-serve basis, according to Indagare membership level. A $75 non-refundable contribution to the Save the Garment Center will be due at the time of booking to secure a spot on this exclusive fashion tour.
For questions, please contact Indagare.
Read a Q&A with Beckett about Friends of Fashion.
Fashion: Behind the Scenes
New York-based Kathleen Beckett was fated to found a company like her recently launched Friends of Fashion. As a longtime contributor to the top names in fashion (Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle), she wrote countless articles about the behind-the-scenes workings of the fashion industry, profiling designers, covering events, and keeping a finger on the pulse of this ever-changing creative field. Even during her tenure as a journalist, however, she realized that what she loved most was learning about the individual passions driving the people she met. “Of course, I also profiled big names,” she says, “but I really appreciated the lesser-known designers who were doing beautiful work.” Eager to share the discoveries she made with her insider access as a journalist, Beckett launched an exclusive personal shopping venture called Beckett’s Black Book. This year, the company transformed into something even more exciting: Friends of Fashion functions as a social fashion community whose members are invited to private shopping parties (some at the designer’s studios or homes), as well as intimate events hosted by such big-hitters as Donna Karan, Proenza Schouler, Nicole Miller and Cynthia Rowley. “A long time ago, while on assignment for Elle, I realized that there might be people out there who would enjoy the same inner access that I had as a journalist,” says Beckett, who is offering a special Friends of Fashion tour for Indagare this spring (read more about the tour and how you can sign up). “That experience laid the groundwork for Friends of Fashion.” Beckett spoke to Indagare about her take on the world of fashion.
Can you describe the experience that inspired the idea behind Friends of Fashion?
I was on assignment for Elle, and I was invited to the home of a fabric designer. She lived in a lovely brownstone and a lot of the fabrics that she had designed were used in pillows and curtains. There was this magical moment when she went to her closet and pulled out a big box filled with thousands of scraps of silk that she had painted. And she told me about her creative process, describing how she sits at her table at 3 a.m. painting on this fabric and how these then end up in creations by such people as Diane von Furstenberg and Jill Stuart. And I thought, there must be people who would love to sit here with her and listen to her talk about her work in this very intimate and beautiful setting.
And you don’t just facilitate meeting designers but also private shopping experiences?
I think that when people visit designers, they also want to shop. To me, shopping is a way for people to share the experience of meeting the designer, and shopping is a way for a designer to have a livelihood and pay his staff. But first and foremost it’s about the access: Friends of Fashion members get to meet the designers and their staff. I take people into their studio where they can see the fabrics being cut while meeting the seamstresses. And what could be better than style advice straight from the designer? When Zac Posen tells you how to wear something, that’s pretty exceptional.
Can you share an incident when a designer and one of your clients really clicked?
I worked with an artist from San Francisco who was looking for a wedding dress, and I introduced her to a wonderful designer named Kelima, who has a tiny shop in Nolita. I just had a feeling that they would hit it off. Kelima ended up incorporating one of the client’s works into the dress, so it ended up being an extremely personal, work-of-art-wedding gown. I love making these connections.
Can you describe Friends of Fashion’s involvement with New York’s Garment District?
New York City’s Garment Center is in danger of dying, one of the reasons I decided to donate a portion of all sales at Friends of Fashion events to Save the Garment Center. This non-profit was formed to protect designers and manufacturers that are being forced to close as the city eases the zoning laws that protect apparel businesses. The end of the Garment Center would be a huge loss for the city, and I believe that this will be the next chic—and worthwhile—cause, like the Highline.
Will some of your tours incorporate this historic district?
Yes, absolutely. There are some wonderful stories. For instance, Indagare members who will attend the Save the Garment Center Tour on March 16 will meet the descendants of those who started some of these factories. There used to be 400 factories specialized in decorative stitching and now there are only four. Statistics like that are jaw-dropping. We will examine how the times have changed. For instance, there are factories that used to do all the work for a designer; and those same places are now producing a single sample to be shipped to China where the line is produced cheaper and of lesser quality. And of course, when a graduate from FIT gets his or her first order from a small boutique for five pieces, they can’t outsource to China. It truly is fascinating when you dive into the behind-the-scenes.
What are some other highlights of the Save the Garment Center Crawl?
We will go on a behind-the-scenes tours to see the factories and meet the people making the clothes we all love to wear. We’ll see designs by Oscar de la Renta, Nicole Miller, and Calvin Klein come to life at one of the last remaining factories for decorative stitching. The tour will end at Nanette Lepore’s headquarters, which house her offices, showroom and design studio, and we’ll chat with Nanette about why she chooses to produce in New York City. Most exciting is also that the designer has agreed to host her first-ever private trunk show for us. Members of our group will be able to place orders for her Fall 2010 collection, which is straight off the runway. She’ll also have her Spring 2010 line for shopping.
As a fashion insider who has observed the New York scene for years, what are some of your personal favorite shops?
I have always been a big fan of Shelly Steffee (34 Gansevoort Street; 917-408-0409) in the Meatpacking District. She was one of the first to set up there and bring attention to the area. She often has art shows in her boutique and is a real promoter of local artisans. Her work itself is very artistic: linear, sculptural and quite beautiful. Her workspace is just above the shop, so what you are trying on downstairs is being made upstairs. I also love Loris Diran (3 East 1st Street; 212- 221-1141) who is becoming the Shelly Steffee of the Bowery. He has a great pedigree, having worked with such designers as Gianni Versace. His work is young and fresh, but of an almost couture level. There are great little dresses for parties, terrific suits or casual wear for men. I think we are going to hear more about him and about him pioneering this whole new fashion-design neighborhood.
Read about Beckett’s special tour for Indagare members on March 16.
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