Passion Points: Family

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You Asked: I’m traveling to Amsterdam for the first time with two teenage children. What are some spots not to miss?
The pretty Dutch city, one of Europe’s most walkable, is known for its 165 canals lined with handsome brick mansions, a vibrant youth culture and lots and lots of bikes—in short, a fabulous destination for families. Amsterdam strikes a perfect balance between old-world (traces of the city’s 17th-century Golden Age can still be seen in architectural details in the historic center) and cutting-edge, with galleries, design shops and innovative restaurants. Here are a few favorite places, culled from the little black books of insiders and longtime locals.
Where to Eat
For a big night out, the restaurants in several of the city’s top hotels are recommended, including the College Hotel (Roelof Hartstraat 1; +31-20-571-1511; fax: +31-20-571-1512; www.steinhotels.com), where renowned chef Schilo van Coevorden whips up innovative Dutch cuisine. Another long-time favorite is Bordewijk (Noordermarkt 7; +31-20-624-3899; www.collegehotelamsterdam.com), a French eatery with a lovely canal-side terrace obverlooking the Prinsengracht). For a memorable lunch, book at De Kas (Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3; +31-20-462-4562; www.restaurantdekas.nl), housed in a former greenhouse (come on a sunny day when the glass house is filled with light). Chefs Kunis and Heijer preside over an often-changing menu; everything is prepared with organic ingredients. For a relaxed setting and simple, deliciously prepared dishes (especially seafood), try Seasons (Herenstraat 16; +31-30-020-330-3800), a local favorite in the Jordaan neighborhood (open for dinner only).
TIP: A good web site to look up potential restaurants is: www.iens.nl. A local called it the “Zagat” of Holland.
Where to Take A Break
For a quick, no-frills lunch or coffee, head to Winkel (Noordermarkt 43; +31-20-623-0223), which is located in the Jordaan neighborhood down the street from the Anne Frank Huis, and has a nice outdoor terrace. For a classic, head to Café Luxembourg on Spui Square, one of the city’s—if not Europe’s—great cafés. For a young, hip scene, Onassis (Westerdoksdijk 40; +30-20-33-00-456; www.onassisamsterdam.nl), a restaurant-lounge that opened in 2006, has fantastic waterside location and a classic Italian menu. If you want to just grab something to go (a great picnic spot is Vondelpark), there’s Patisserie Pompadour, which has a large variety of sandwiches as well as pastries and other baked treats. There are two locations, both centrally located: Huidenstraat 12 and Kerkstraat 148.
What to See & Do
MUSEUMS: The two museums that should be on top of any list are the Van Gogh Museum (Postbus 75366; +31-20-570-5200), which holds more than 200 of the artist’s works, and the Anne Frank Huis (Paulus Potterstraat 7; +31-20-570-5200). For the latter, come very early to avoid the long line (it opens at 9 a.m.). The main building of the Rijksmuseum is currently undergoing restoration, so only highlights of the collection are being displayed in the new Philips Wing. Rembrandt fans should not miss the Rembrandt House Museum (Jodenbreetstraat 4; +31-20-520-0400), which was restored to what it was when the master lived there.
ACTIVITIES: Follow the locals’ lead and rent a bike to explore the city. Bike paths are well-marked, safe and everywhere. It’s the easiest way to get around a city that is notoriously for traffic/parking nightmares. A good place to rent is Yellow Bike (they also do two guided bike tours daily throughout the city), where you can rent by the hour or day. Remember that you have to bring a picture ID to rent a bike. TIP: Several hotels work with Yellow Bike. Order your bike at the reception and it will be there before 9 a.m. Nieuwezijds Kolk 29; +31-20-620-6940; fax: +31-20-620-7140; www.yellowbike.nl.
ON THE WATER: You must also take a boat tour through the grachten (canals). There are several public boats you can take, but for a treat, book with Paradis Private Boat Tours (011-31-20-684-9338; www.privateboattours.nl) which has three vessels, including Paradis, a restored one from the 1920s.
Where to Shop
A great shopping street is the Haarlemerstraat with lots of fashion boutiques, gourmet food stores. Also, the Ninth Street area for young fashion boutiques. If you want to visit some of the city’s excellent food markets, go to Noordermarkt (on Saturdays) and Market in the Pipe (everyday except Sunday).
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