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“Venice is a fish,” writes Italian poet Tiziano Scarpa in one of the best literary novellas about the city—and he’s right. When seen from afar, the map resembles an open-mouthed fish, its head San Polo, its lower jaw the Dorsoduro, taking a big bite out of chubby San Marco. Planning one’s own meals in Venice is tricky. While one can eat quite well in the more remote sesiteri (neighborhoods) of this water-edged city, it’s also remarkably easy to end up with a disappointing meal in the more touristy spots, unlike in, say, Rome or Vienna, where even the simplest places often deliver.

Carefully mapping out ones meals around sight-seeing is also important since time functions very differently in Venice—everything takes longer by water than on a paved road. Who has not had the unfortunate experience of wandering around mobbed San Marco, desperately looking for a lunch spot that doesn’t look overly touristy with a throng of hungry—read unhappy—family members in tow? It is essential to come armed with a host of restaurant recommendations for each sestieri you’ll be touring.

This third installment of our Best of Italy Dining series (read number 1, Amalfi & Capri, and number 2, Rome) is divided by neighborhood and/or major sites you are likely to visit.

Many of the picks are included in our Mapped Out: Venice guide, a three-day itinerary and map that facilitates insider exploration. Buy the Mapped Out Guide here. If you have recently returned from a trip and would like to share your favorites, send us a postcard. Buon appetito!

SAN MARCO:

Nearby sights: San Marco Square, Bell Tower, Doge’s Palace, La Fenice, Biblioteca Marciana, Correr Museum

• For an al fresco lunch: Aqua Pazza
• For an intimate seafood lunch: Il Ridotto
• For lunch/dinner near San Marco: Osteria Enoteca San Marco or Trattoria Do Forni
• For an afternoon coffee: Caffe Florian
• For a sweet snack: Colussi
• For a classic cocktail: Harry’s Bar
• For a big night out on the laguna: De Pisis
• For a classic Venetian setting: Il Quadri
• For a local dinner: Alle Testiere

DORSODURO:

Nearby sights: Gallerie dell’Accademia, Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Punta della Dogana, Fondazione Vedova, Ca’Rezzonico, Ca’Foscari, Campo San Barnaba

• For a big night out on the laguna: Lineadombra
• For an al fresco lunch: La Rivisita
• For lunch on the laguna: La Piscina
• For a local lunch or dinner: Pesador Riviera
• For a sweet snack: Gelateria Nico
• For aperitifs: Cantinone Gia Schiava

SAN POLO/SANTA CROCE:

Nearby sights: Santa Maria dei Frari, Scuola di San Rocco, Campo San Polo, Rialto Market

• For a local lunch or dinner: Antiche Carampane
• For an al fresco lunch: Birraria La Corte
• For an al fresco lunch or aperitifs: Bancogiro
• For great pizza: Il Refolo
• For a sweet treat: Gelateria Alaska
• For aperitifs and/or dinner: Naranzaria
• For a big night out: Da Fiore

CASTELLO:

Nearby sights: The sites of the Biennale de Venise

• For an al fresco lunch: Corte Sconta
• For a lazy lunch or dinner: Al Covo or Alle Testiere

RESTAURANTS WORTH A WATER TAXI RIDE FOR DINNER:

• Big Night Out: Cip’s Club, on the Giudecca
• Big Night Out: Da Fiore, in San Polo
• Big Night Out: De Pisis, at Il Palazzo

• Local Scene: Antiche Carampane, in San Polo
• Local Scene: Naranzaria, at the Rialto Bridge
• Local Scene: Alle Testiere, in Castello (but within walking distance to San Marco square)