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A cruise of the Galapagos should be on every eco-tourist’s must-do list. This archipelago of 13 large islands and 100 islets, which rests on the equator about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, is today much as it was when Charles Darwin dropped by in the early l9th century to put the finishing touches on his theory of evolution: fascinating and unforgettable, with extraordinary birds, reptiles and animals at every turn—iguanas, flamingos, giant tortoises, penguins, even rare blue-footed boobies. During a recent expedition, I spent an afternoon snorkeling with a sea lion so close I could see a small scar on his forehead. That said, visitors should also be prepared for a hot, humid climate, a surprisingly barren landscape and a strenous workout. As my wife said on the afternoon of day two of a four-day cruise aboard the M.V. Santa Cruz, “You know, when we get back home, I’m going to need to take a couple of days off.”

Not that our cruise ship, booked through Galapagos Traveller, lacked sufficient creature comforts; indeed, this ninety-passenger vessel, designed especially for cruising these islands, is a wonderful way to go. A friendly and able staff served three hearty meals a day, had drinks for us at sunset on the rear deck and answered every conceivable question about the past, present and future of this unique ecological treasure. Our cabin on the “boat deck” (middle) was roomy enough to accommodate a sitting area and a floor to ceiling window with postcard views of the Pacific and the islands. Also, the whole place was air-conditioned.

But this is unremittingly demanding travel. You’re up at 5:30, down to an ample breakfast buffet, then off to one or another island to hike and snorkel and listen to the expert guides explain this fascinating assemblage of wildlife that by happenstance, the vagaries of ocean current and hundreds of years of evolution came to co-exist here. Back for lunch buffet; then on to another hike on another island. But in the end, what you’ll remember is seeing nature as you never have before. A double cabin for an eight-day cruise starts at $4250 per person.

Who Should Go: Truly dedicated eco-tourists who don’t mind a little sand in their shoes.

Ideal Length of Stay: There are eight and four-day packages available; we found the shorter trip more than adequate and have heard from fellow travelers that the longer voyage gets repetitive.

Room to Get: Boat or upper deck rooms really have the same stunning views from floor to ceiling windows. My favorite single was on the upper aft deck, with great views and the opportunity to snooze on lounge chairs.

Getting There: The only direct flights to Ecuador’s inland capital, Quito, are out of Houston, Los Angeles, Miami and New York. We chose to stay a couple nights in Quito, an aged, but sparkling city, before taking a commuter airline, TAME, to the islands to begin our cruise.

Read another first-hand account of a Galapagos cruise and about Ecoventura, a company that leads carbon-neutral cruises in the Galapagos.