More Photos (2)

As we crept along the bumpy dirt road after a two-hour drive from Puerto Vallarta airport, we began to doubt the existence of Hotelito Desconocido. Then we recalled what its name means: “little unknown hotel.”

The environmentally conscious resort, which promises “luxury that only nature can provide,” is hidden within a Mexican wildlife preserve between the Sierra Madre Mountains and forty miles of pristine beaches. Soon the shimmering Pacific appeared on the horizon, and we spied several of the two dozen thatched palafitos (stilt dwellings) that dot the property’s 100 acres. We paused at the open thatched hut that serves as front desk and signed in—literally, since there’s no computer. As we walked to our palafito (our bags were already on their way), staffers lit the torches lining every pathway. This wasn’t just for effect. Hotelito has no electricity, so there are no lamps. Nor are there telephones, radios, televisions or outlets for cell phones, iPods or PDAs—just the type of blissful simplicity we were seeking, and our sunset arrival only added to the romance.

Italian fashion designer Marcello Murzilli created Hotelito in 1996 as a high-end, ecosensitive hideaway. It uses alternative energy sources and protects endangered sea turtles that nest on the beach, but still manages to thoroughly pamper its guests. Our room glowed with warm candlelight. Marvelous ocean views presented themselves even from the solar-heated shower. Hand-embroidered white linens draped our canopy bed. Our porch, complete with a hammock, overlooked the picturesque estuary that winds through the landscape. Early morning swims became a daily ritual. The resort doesn’t offer room service. We simply raised the red flag on our balcony to get our morning coffee and then strolled to the main restaurant. Located on the estuary, El Cantarito serves simple, delicious breakfasts including such dishes as huevos rancheros plus dinners of arroz con pollo and fresh fish with plenty of organically grown fruit. Nopalito, a smaller eatery, turned out to be an idyllic spot for a seaside or poolside lunch.

When we weren’t eating or sunning, we paddled and windsurfed using the kayaks and sailboards supplied by Jorge, a staff member and a local, who also took us on a catamaran cruise. Another staff member who was born in the area, Eduardo, led us on a magnificent horseback ride along the beach at sunset. The next morning we booked massages under the spa’s gauzy white tent, saving the yoga class, mud bath and steam room for another day.

When our holiday ended, we signed the handwritten guest book and reluctantly bid goodbye to the staff. As we once again traveled that rough road, the resort’s huts receding into the distance behind us, we marveled at how easily we had adjusted to living off the grid and without any of our daily technological conveniences. Ah, what joy to unplug literally and metaphorically! Rooms from $312, May 1 through October 29, 2007. ERIN EGAN

Where It Is: Sixty miles south of Puerto Vallarta on Mexico’s Pacific coast, in the Playón de Mismaloya nature reserve.

Who Should Go: Those seeking a true escape from the pressures and intrusions of modern life, who want to revel in a natural landscape.

Who Should Not Go: Anyway who demands constant communication and up-to-the-minute conveniences.

Getting There: Many U.S. cities have direct flights to Puerto Vallarta; it’s also possible to fly into Manzanillo. The hotel can arrange for transportation to and from either airport.

When to Go: High season runs from November through April, when the daytime temperatures range from 75 to 85 degrees F. The summer months are hotter, and during the rainy season, from June through September, afternoon showers are frequent.

Room to Get: Palafito Master Suite, which faces the ocean and has its own private dock and rowboat.