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Author Suzanna Clarke and her husband, Sandy McCutcheon bought and restored a traditional riad in Fez, having fallen in love with the city in their travel. The experience is documented Clarke’s recently published book, A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco. Here the Australia-based writer and photojournalist shares her favorite places in the city.

What are some sights/places not to miss on a first time trip Fez?

On your first trip to Fez, you can either employ a licensed guide, or go alone. If you are doing the latter, I suggest starting with a coffee at the Hotel Merinides, which has a fabulous view out over the Medina. Then go to the main city gate, the Bab Boujeloud, and begin your walk down the hill. Take the left hand fork which leads you to the Talaa Kbira, one of the two main thoroughfares. After the food souk, on the right you will come to the Bou Inania, a 14th century religious college with exquisite plaster work and carving that has been beautifully restored. You can pop across the alley to the Café Clock for lunch (ask to sit on the terrace), which has delicious and exotic fare such as camel burgers, before walking down to the thousand year old tanneries where you will see men walking the narrow paths between huge vats of colorful dyes, and the surrounding buildings covered with drying pelts. Be warned, it can be pretty smelly when the weather is hot.

On the way, keep an eye out for the weaving and embroidery workshops. At the bottom of the hill, visit the Henna souk, a quiet oasis where you will find lots of wonderful blue and white Fez ceramics and small items like rose moisturizer and henna which make great gifts. It’s worth seeing the Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts and the street nearby where they make elaborate wedding thrones. Then wander through Place Seffarine, to see brass pots and lanterns being made, down the street of the knife grinders, and past the dyers. You will eventually reach my favorite food souk, the one next to R’Cif. The olives and dried and fresh fruit are particularly good. After that you can either brave walking back up the hill via the other main thoroughfare, the Talaa Sghira, or catch a pedi taxi back to your hotel.

If you feel in need of a bit of pampering after all that walking, Nausika Spa at Avenue Bahnini in the Ville Nouvelle (212-35-61-00-06) is a modern and well equipped place to experience an up-market hammam and massage. For the full Fez Medina experience, I suggest you stay at a traditional riad in the Medina, which will have far more atmosphere than a new hotel in the Ville Nouvelle. The best selection of places to stay is offered through Fez Riads (www.fez-riads.com).

What are some of your favorite restaurants/cafes?

My favorite street café is Thami’s, the last one in the street near the Bab Bou Jeloud, which serves freshly made food, such as chicken and fish at reasonable prices. You can sit under the mulberry tree and watch the crowds meander past. Try the makoodas (fried potato cakes) with some Moroccan harissa (hot sauce). You can also visit Café Clock in the Talaa Kbira for snacks or lunch; Ryad Mabrouka (212-35-63-63-45) or Maison Bleue (212-35-63-60-52) for a slap-up Moroccan meal.

Do you have advice for someone who is interested in exploring/shopping in the Medina?

Bargaining is an expected part of buying most goods in Fez, except food. If you are with a guide or other Moroccan, be aware you will be paying at least an additional forty percent to cover their commission. You can also explore the Medina on your own, or seek out a specific shop later. When a merchant says he will post your parcel, it will almost certainly happen, as there are strict regulations concerning this. Don’t buy antique fixtures or fittings taken from Fez houses – particularly doors. If you do, you are supporting a trade which is robbing a World Heritage-listed city of some of the very features that makes it unique. However, there are plenty of artifacts you can purchase such as pottery, embroidery; leather work, metalwork and weaving that provide skilled craftsmen and women with income and a way to sustain centuries-old traditions.

The View From Fez (www.riadzany.blogspot.com), a blog written by Clarke and McCutcheon has up-to-date news and a searchable archive.