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Ti’a moana means “standing in the ocean” in Tahitian. And so we were, on an elegant 226-foot blond-wood yacht built specially in Australia with a shallow draft that would allow us to sail the knee-deep lagoons of the Leeward Islands for six nights and seven days. The itinerary took us from Bora Bora to Taha’a, to Huahine, to Raiatea and back again. Though some of these islands do have small hotels, most are not set up for tourism, and you can see their unspoiled beauty best by boat. Ours was made of mostly light wood veneers with furniture designed by the Swedish firm Tilberg. The result was plush burgundy chairs, colorful tiled walls, rattan outdoor chairs and recliners and local art handpicked by the owner, Mehiti Degage, a sophisticated Tahitian woman from a boat-building family.

The Ti’a Moana is owned by Bora Bora Cruises, who brought the concept of private yachting to Tahiti. It is high-level traveling with very few rules. Their ships go off the beaten path, and guests are unconstrained and allowed to do as much or as little as they like. With the number of special excursions available, the delicious and ample cuisine and the high civility quotient, it seemed to me that we were traveling not just at a luxury level but at one of real prestige. It may be as close to hedonistic as my husband and I will ever get. Launched in 2003, the Ti’a Moana has four triple cabins and 26 doubles decorated in earth tones and having comfortable, if not roomy, baths and plenty of closet space. While it can easily handle 50 guests a week, it is rarely more than half full. The week we set sail, only seven couples joined us (four on their honeymoons), all from different countries and with different agendas, ranging from those who wanted to do everything to those who beached themselves most of every day. It was generally during meals that we came together, and by the end of the week, we felt like family, despite the language barriers.

The food was universally good. The chef, Laurent Luttringer, from the Alsace region of France, prepared three meals every day and afternoon tea. Nightly turndown service came with delicious truffles. The menu had as many as ten options, including fish, chicken, meat, pasta, vegetarian and chef’s selections for both lunch and dinner. Breakfast ranged from a fruit-and-croissant buffet to eggs Benedict; we could order everything or nothing. There was always a selection of fine French wines and, for an extra cost, a full bar (beginning in 2008, everything, including all alcohol and laundry, will be included in the price). On boarding, we were asked about our culinary likes and dislikes, and for the rest of the trip, the offending foods never appeared on our plates. One night we ordered a room-service cheese plate that came piled with enough food for 20. Most impressive were the activities, which, far from being hokey, were as authentic as I’ve seen anywhere. All island tours were led by longtime locals who gave us inside information about life on Bora Bora. Along the way we were treated to an a cappella concert by a choir of local Polynesians on a beach on Huahine, toured a vanilla plantation on Raiatea, dined on the exquisite private beach of Hana Iti, had massages on whatever beach we were at that day, snorkeled, Jet Ski’d, swam and sea-kayaked whenever we felt the urge. Then again, we sometimes chose to do nothing more than read a book on one of the yacht’s four decks or sip Champagne in one of two onboard Jacuzzis while being waited on by one of the forty staff members, who’d been hired to please only fourteen guests. As a special touch, the ship traveled mostly at night, so each morning, we were greeted by the sight of a new paradise. Gauguin would surely have approved. $6,800 per week per person.

Who Should Go: Travelers who want to see hard-to-get-to Tahitian islands and have access to hidden private beach motus that require special permission to visit.

Who Should Not Go: Those looking for a family experience with children; those who need immediate access to the Internet or cell-phone or daily newspaper service.

Rooms to Get: Request one of the two cabins on the aft side of the bridge deck. Though all cabins are basically the same size, these have an extra window for more light and, because they are on the third level, better views.

On the Horizon: The Ti’a Moana’s sister ship, the Tu Moana, is being outfitted now for private charter to begin in 2008. Her twenty-five cabins will include two large owner suites and two junior suites. The ship is identical to the Ti’a Moana except that it is constructed mostly of darker wood. The cost, 300,000 euros (about $440,000) a week, will include all food and alcohol and most excursions.