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The first thing I noticed as I sped towards Peter Island on the resort’s private boat was the color of the water. Deepening from bright turquoise to navy blue, the Caribbean Sea looked so appealing I would have jumped straight in had it not been for the glass of Champagne in my hand. The second thing I noticed was how relaxed I felt—an amazing feat considering my missed connection in San Juan and final arrival to Tortola in the copilot’s seat of a plane that probably saw action in World War II.

Located on an 1,800-acre private island in the British Virgin Islands, Peter Island has just fifty-two rooms and four villas. Despite the resort’s age (it opened in the 1960s), the accommodations and other facilities feel as fresh as those of newer properties. Divided into oceanfront rooms by the lobby and larger beachfront junior suites, there simply isn’t a bad room in the house. Current renovations will brighten some of the older decor, but otherwise the spacious accommodations feel both totally luxurious and truly Caribbean. Once guests disperse to one of the five beaches, take a sail to a renowned dive site or disappear inside the stunning spa, you might feel like the island is your own. And with a staff-to-guest ratio of two-to-one, you’ll be treated as though it is, too. As one guest said to me, they don’t seem to know how to say no. When I visited, the chef was studying books on raw cooking to customize menus for a incoming party of vegans while another guest was touring Tortola real estate with a staff member who volunteered to show her where to buy. Many visitors who honeymooned here are still coming back thirty years later.

With all this pampering and relaxation, it’s easy to forget that there’s more to the resort than dozing on the sand. Guests in search of a little activity can paddle a sea kayak around Dead Man’s Bay or get dropped off with snorkel equipment and a picnic lunch at the pristine and private White Bay Beach. If a round of golf sounds appealing, helicopter transport can be arranged to a course on St. Thomas. The resort also has tennis courts and a gym, but frankly there’s not much appeal to a treadmill when you can get your morning exercise swimming in the warm, calm sea. (And this is coming from someone who generally sticks to the pool.)

Who Should Go: Couples looking for a place to reconnect.

Who Shouldn’t Go: Although Peter Island doesn’t expressly forbid children, the services are geared towards adults. Management recently allowed technology a place on the island, but you’ll find televisions and WiFi only in the resort’s game room and in the villas. If you want to bring your family, book a villa.

Villa To Get: Falcon’s Nest—six bedrooms and almost 22,000 square feet of unabashed luxury. Amenities include a full staff, infinity pool, media room, gym, nanny’s quarters and a van and driver for when guests want to descend from their hillside perch and mix with other guests.

What Not To Miss: Each night, a few guests are taken to watch the sunset from a remote hilltop with views of St. John and Norman’s Island. Settle into a comfortable Adirondack chair with a bottle of Champagne and get picked up before dinner.

Indagare Tip: Seclusion, privacy and romance are great, but so is the Thursday night wine-pairing dinner in the private wine room. Join the small group (only twelve guests) to taste a bit of what the resort’s cellar has to offer.

Getting There: Paradise can feel far away if you take the traditional route of a connection to Tortola through San Juan followed by a ferry ride to the island. On Saturdays and Tuesdays, Peter Island runs ferries to St. Thomas, which has more direct flights than Tortola. You can also take a helicopter directly on to the island from St. Thomas, an upgrade that cuts the time significantly. Although Tortola’s Beef Island Airport is small, it can accommodate private jets.